Post by flattopusa on Mar 27, 2023 12:21:43 GMT -5
1.) The Bullet:
The first step in the process is to measure the groove diameter of the bore (not the bore diameter). This can be done by slugging the bore, measuring the groove diameter with a precision hole gauge and micrometer, or using an adjustable sizing die and an existing bullet that will produce a slip fit with very slight pressure of bullet to bore fit.
I will use my SML as an example: My bore diameter is .4295, my groove diameter is .4170. My cast bullets are sized to .417 which allows for a slip fit with very slight resistance. I had a mold made by Accurate Molds to cast a bullet at .4200, or .003 larger than my groove diameter, to allow for the use of different alloys. All alloys do not cast to the same diameter, thus the need for a mold made to compensate for this.
The bullet can be gas checked with lube grooves, gas checked without lube grooves, or not gas checked or lubed grooved at all, but, your choice of bullet use will dictate the design that you choose:
a.) For fps below 2000 fps a plain base bullet with a card or wool wad to protect the base may be used. For fps above 2000 fps a gas check design would be suggested.
b.) Lube grooves will disrupt long distance flight/accuracy and if you shoot beyond 200 to 250 yards or so a non-lube groove bullet is the suggested choice. (My bullets that I now use are lube groove/gas check bullets. My hunting distances are well within 100 yards and the bullets are more than accurate for that distance. Also I intend to do more testing with non-paper patch bullets in the future so the lube groove bullet was my choice. My fps is at 2500 and I use a gas check. The gas check is annealed soft to enhance obturation of the check and the bullet in the SML.)
c.) The design of the bullet (ogive and nose) is of concern as well. For distances to 200 to 250 yards a flat nose bullet (LBT design) puts a wallop on game but at distances beyond that where the aerodynamics of a more streamlined bullet is necessary for supreme accuracy the streamlined bullet should be used.
d.) Lastly the alloy: A soft alloy may be used for lower fps. Pure lead with 1% tin is good up to 2000 fps...a BHN 8 is ideal and is a great hunting bullet. As the velocities increase the bullet hardness must as well. I am shooting a BHN 12 at 2500 fps and it is devastating on game.....good expansion, and pass through performance....but, the BHN 8 at 2000 fps will perform the same. Match the alloy to the velocity and the bullet will obturate, be accurate, and get the job done.
e.) For those of you who choose not to cast your own bullets there may be some specialty cast bullet companies (like Montana Bullet Company) that may be able to make bullets to order for your needs.
Paper patching the bullet: There is plenty of info on the subject and it requires some study and I will not get into all the particulars of that now...but, do your home work and you will be successful. I will share some things I have encountered with the SML's that may be of help:
a.) Make a template so each paper patch you cut is identical. Wrap each bullet as precisely as you can...consistency is the key to accuracy and performance.
b.) Use 9 pound onion paper for your patch. It is .001 thick....it is the best patching paper that can be obtained. Buffalo Arms sells this patching paper.
c.) Wet and dry patching makes a difference in accuracy...try both in your SML to decide which method your rifle prefers.
d.) You can shoot your patches dry or lubed (I use pure carnuba wax for lube. This allows for some degree of weather protection for the patch and aids the loading of the bullet in the bore). DO NOT use a petroleum base lube, or any lube that will saturate the patch. It will not allow the patch to separate from the bullet as the bullet leaves the bore, which can affect accuracy.
e.) If you use a lubricant to size your bullets it MUST be removed form the bullet before the patching process takes place. A soak in gasoline and a final soak in lacquer thinner will accomplish that.
My process:
I cast my bullets and give them a day or two to allow the alloy to stabilize. I then size the bullet to the groove diameter. I patch the bullet with 9 pound onion paper (two wraps) only wetting the tail of the patch and the base and folding it neatly into and around the base of the gas check. I then set the bullet in a drying rack to dry. Once dry I coat the bullet with a small amount of pure carnuba wax and allow it to dry...then I size the patched bullet in the sizing die again...wipe it with a soft micro fiber cloth and its ready to shoot. The sizing die must be clean and lube free for this process.
The final sizing of the patched bullet bonds the patch to the bullet through compression yet allows for ease of release of the patch upon exiting the bore, sizes the bullet to the groove diameter, and protects the bore from lead deposits. Absolutely no leading will occur if the bullet is patched correctly.
In closing:
I realize that we live in an instant gratification society and the paper patching process will only be interesting for a few of you, but this combination of old (paper patch) technology and new (SML) technology has been an interesting pursuit and is well worth the time, and effort. It will produce a superb hunting bullet with historically proven performance. Cast bullets have been used since the 14th century in black powder firearms, and when smokeless powder became available (higher bullet velocities) the paper patched bullet was devised to eliminate lead fouling before the invention of the jacketed bullet. The jacketed bullet is easily obtainable. The paper patched bullet process is a do it yourself endeavor, but, for those that choose to pursue it, it can be an eye opening experience. John Taylor the legendary African hunter (and poacher) called the cast paper patched bullet "the most perfect bullet that has ever been devised" and that was well after the invention of jacketed bullets....and he for one should know.
Anyway, if any of you have questions I will do my best to share my experiences with you, and for those of you that choose to pursue this we can most likely learn from each other.
