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Annealing
Jan 1, 2023 19:50:32 GMT -5
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Post by tar12 on Jan 1, 2023 19:50:32 GMT -5
What does annealing bullets do for you?
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Post by Richard on Jan 1, 2023 20:13:47 GMT -5
On solid copper bullets it softens them for sizing and full forming.
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Post by hillbill on Jan 1, 2023 20:16:07 GMT -5
It softens a copper bullet. When heated with a torch until pink and quenched in liquid copper anneals or turns dead soft making it easier to obturate or swell inside the bore It also makes an otherwise hard to size projectile softer and much easier to get thru the die.
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Annealing
Jan 1, 2023 20:56:54 GMT -5
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Post by tar12 on Jan 1, 2023 20:56:54 GMT -5
How soft does it make the copper?
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Post by sew on Jan 1, 2023 22:05:39 GMT -5
Some copper bullets are milled (CEB, Hammer, other?) and are very hard. Other copper bullets are cast and are much softer. Barnes are cast. For me, the milled need annealed so I wont worry that I’m damaging my full sizing die. I worry too much😊.
Annealing not only makes the bullets easier to size, but they obturate much easier, especially with lighter loads. But, there’s even more- the terminal performance is much better, imo. I always get exits , but annealed bullets expand more thus transferring more energy into the animal and leaving a larger blood trail on those rare occasions the deer isn’t DRT.
Annealing - easer to size, obturates easier (bore sized or saboted) , transfers more energy, larger blood trails. That’s why I anneal them all, cast or milled.
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Post by sew on Jan 1, 2023 22:07:24 GMT -5
How soft does it make the copper? They still seem pretty hard.
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Annealing
Jan 1, 2023 23:00:09 GMT -5
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sew likes this
Post by tar12 on Jan 1, 2023 23:00:09 GMT -5
How soft does it make the copper? They still seem pretty hard. Thanks for the explanation Steve.. I have always been curious about annealing copper bullets..will he be able to use the Hankins smooth die on annealed copper bullets? Excuse my ignorance on this subject lol
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Post by sew on Jan 2, 2023 7:44:54 GMT -5
A smooth sized , milled bullet (CEB, Hammer) would certainly obturate easier if annealed. My understanding is that the alloy used in Hammer bullets is not as hard as some other copper bullets. The polymer tipped, monolithic bullets (Barnes 45 cals, for example) would present proglems in annealing, but they are cast bullets. The 4005/253g Hammers are no longer made (call Steve at Hammer and ask if he can still make them, if interested). I smooth sized these for my 10ML2/40PN and they work well (annealed).
In 45s, shooting saboted, 40 cal bullets, I always found that annealing increased increased accuracy and terminal performance.
Somewhere on this board, someone mentioned that he would always use a cup and core bullet because he didn’t want a hole in and a small hole out (paraphrased). I think if the only annealed, monolithic bullets had been this poster’s experiences, a different perception of monolithic bullets would be had.
Anneal those monolithic bullets, imo!
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Post by ballistic on Jan 2, 2023 11:02:12 GMT -5
Annealing is easier said than done. I haven’t tried it in sabots but just might as sews experience makes sense. Annealing certainly makes a hard machined CEB easier to size (softens it and makes it smaller before sizing OD). Annealing really helps the round expand better on big game and that’s important to me (I like giant wound channels). Annealing helps obturation and accuracy normally is better. On some (not all) setups -copper fouling issues in just a few shots occur. This happens with full sized bullets. You can have 2 identical muzzys side by side with the same ingredients. 1 will shoot 100 times the other 2 shots and have to be cleaned. Direct ignition seems to help likely due to a better seal. Faster powders also do better with less fouling. Non annealed bullets don’t copper foul as much but aren’t as accurate and can zip (pencil hole) through animals - so I recommend annealing them for full sizing and reliable expansion - at least on hard machined bullets like CEB.
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Post by hillbill on Jan 2, 2023 14:32:56 GMT -5
I annealed the .375 CEB when shooting my .375, terminal performance was great BUT they were so soft that if dropped on a hard surface it would seriously bend the tip or the boat tail, I also experienced increase copper fouling from what I normally see?
I never really shot a bunch with that barrel and have since sold it but copper mono's are a different bird once annealed, that much I am sure of. Basically the same experience with my .416.
I never have had pencil thru problems with the Pittman Hammers, the nose always splits and separates, sometimes the two nose pieces are found in off side hide, most times you have a three hole exit, the bullet base always exits. I have yet to anneal any? Might try it in the future but so far performance has been great without annealing.
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Post by sew on Jan 2, 2023 15:45:47 GMT -5
Bill, your load is so much hotter than mine. As we’ve discussed, your velocities do cause the bullets to be more frangible than my lower energied setup.
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Post by buckdoehunter on Jan 6, 2023 9:30:30 GMT -5
I played around with some Hornady 250 grain MonoFlexs in .458 cal. They would not go thru my FF die without annealing. It was an easy process and worked well. At 100 yards, they shot pretty good.  
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Post by ballistic on Jan 6, 2023 10:24:50 GMT -5
I played around with some Hornady 250 grain MonoFlexs in .458 cal. They would not go thru my FF die without annealing. It was an easy process and worked well. At 100 yards, they shot pretty good.   Your pic is perfect to show a full anneal of a bullet -thanks for sharing. For my copper fouling issues I tried a partial anneal with decent results. You can use a home gas cooktop and set the bullets on the burner surface that’s flat. You watch the bullet until it turns black (black is the oxidization raising to the surface). It usually takes 5-10 minutes for the color change. Stove tops aren’t as hot as the torch but are around 700-775 degrees if I remember correctly. When the bullet turns black use a kitchen tablespoon and butter knife to obtain the black bullet and immediately drop it in a deep pan of cold water. This type of annealing isn’t as soft as a full (cherry red) anneal - but helps cut down copper fouling in barrels that copper foul easily. It’s what I call a hybrid anneal. It’s important for the bullet surface to be completely black so patience is required. Several bullets can be done at a time - but be cautious as there are cold spots where the flames come together. With a short learning curve this method might work as well. Again it’s a partial anneal not a full. The pic above is the perfect example of a full anneal with a container beneath it to cool the bullet- thanks for sharing.
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Post by hillbill on Jan 6, 2023 10:57:44 GMT -5
I have found that the fastest and most consistent way for me to anneal bullets is with a turbo torch and mapp gas, it heats very quickly. I line the bullets up on a piece of flat steel about 1" apart and heat until they turn pink counting how long it takes to do so and try to keep the time as consistent as possible, like sew the use of apple cider vinegar for quenching keeps down the scale formed when using water. Keep in mind that if you are doing a volume of bullets it will not take long to get the quench liquid to boil so you will likely have to stop at some point and let it cool. It will surprise you just how soft these bullets become with a full anneal so keep that in mind.
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miked
Junior Member

Posts: 79
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Post by miked on Jan 9, 2023 21:28:22 GMT -5
I used CEB's this year in a sabot in my Scout. In factory form they completely shredded the sabots and if they happened to hit my backstop, they were sideways.
I annealed them with a torch and then they stacked holes, recovered sabots were perfect and speed was 2600fps using a duplex of 10/47 N110/I4198. I was only able to take a doe with them but results were great at 120yds. 2/3rds high double lung liquified and several petals made it to the heart making it unrecognizable. Complete mush cut in half with just a little bit intact on the outside. When I show people the picture they have no idea what they are looking at!
Happy so far with the performance! Looking forward to see what Hammer is working on for us!
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Post by Sideshow on Jan 10, 2023 1:54:23 GMT -5
Has anyone attempted coating their annealed monos ?? What did you try and what were the results ??
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klook
Junior Member

Posts: 67
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Post by klook on Jan 10, 2023 7:08:33 GMT -5
I used CEB's this year in a sabot in my Scout.
What grain bullet may I ask? Light seems likely for 2600fps?
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Post by sew on Jan 10, 2023 8:07:45 GMT -5
When I used CEBs, I preferred the terminal performance of the 240s. The 165s were a bit frangible.
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Post by ballistic on Jan 10, 2023 12:00:43 GMT -5
Has anyone attempted coating their annealed monos ?? What did you try and what were the results ?? I annealed and had .408 CEB bullets coated to increase their diameter to .4095. These were smooth sized and pushed down a .416 bore to attempt smooth sizing instead of normal full sized .416 bullets. Rounds that hit the target - hit it sideways. This is a bad example of what you are looking for. I should have tried some .416 bullets but didn’t.
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Post by Sideshow on Jan 10, 2023 12:13:12 GMT -5
Hey you replied Ballistic thats golden in itself lol !!! I appreciate the reply and the thinking . But yes i truthfully had full form on my mind with that question . What did you have applied ??
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