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Post by yoderjac on Nov 5, 2022 14:38:10 GMT -5
I just got the CDS dial for my smokeless, but the question applies to any range (or windage for that matter) dial on any scope with external adjustment. Using the CDS in a treestand is no real issue for me. Most shots are under 100 yards and I don't need to adjust it anyway, but I can read the dial just fine. The problem occurs when hunting from a box blind. With box blinds I'm often shooting into an open field and can have longer distance shots. The boxblind is much darker inside than the ambient outdoor lighting. In early morning or late evening I can't read the dial without light. If I have to adjust the dial, deer are far enough away that I can easily move the firearm below the window where movement is not an issue. However, lighting up the blind is probably not a good idea.
I have a couple ideas but I'd like to hear what others are doing. One idea is a small quarter size stick on LED light I could put on the scope so I'm not looking around for it. The problem is the dimmest I can find is about 13 lumens. I could probably somehow put some plastic filter over it. If it is close to the dial, I don't need much brightness. Another thought is one of those rare earth luminous tubes. They will have a much lower output but there is not way to turn them on and off except to cover them.
Any other thoughts?
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Post by farmerboy78 on Nov 5, 2022 14:44:55 GMT -5
The scopes I use have clicks you can hear and feel. If I know the dope, I would just feel and listen
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Post by joelmoney on Nov 5, 2022 15:41:08 GMT -5
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Post by yoderjac on Nov 5, 2022 18:12:05 GMT -5
Great idea, Thanks! Only trouble is that they are out of stock. |
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Post by yoderjac on Nov 5, 2022 18:18:41 GMT -5
The scopes I use have clicks you can hear and feel. If I know the dope, I would just feel and listen Ya, that requires memorization and kind of defeats the purpose of the CDS. |
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Post by ballistic on Nov 6, 2022 10:44:28 GMT -5
A simple head mounted red led light works really well in low light for me. You can dial your cds or turret dial and even leave the light on to make the shot. The red light doesn’t spook animals and hasn’t messed with my Vision either. Get the small AAA versions that have 2 small red led lights -they aren’t the best light for walking in to a blind in the dark but serve the purpose well enough and work great for the above.
Hope this helps
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Post by yoderjac on Nov 6, 2022 19:39:54 GMT -5
Well, maybe it is home brew time. I just ordered some electrical components that should let me drive a single red led from a 3 volt cr2032. I'm thinking of putting the LED in some kind of tube that is pointed at the turret on top of the scope. I got it with a small switch so I can turn it on when needed. The electronics are simple. The ingenuity will come in figuring how to attach it.
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Post by jeepeater on Nov 6, 2022 20:09:00 GMT -5
I just got the CDS dial for my smokeless, but the question applies to any range (or windage for that matter) dial on any scope with external adjustment. Using the CDS in a treestand is no real issue for me. Most shots are under 100 yards and I don't need to adjust it anyway, but I can read the dial just fine. The problem occurs when hunting from a box blind. With box blinds I'm often shooting into an open field and can have longer distance shots. The boxblind is much darker inside than the ambient outdoor lighting. In early morning or late evening I can't read the dial without light. If I have to adjust the dial, deer are far enough away that I can easily move the firearm below the window where movement is not an issue. However, lighting up the blind is probably not a good idea. I have a couple ideas but I'd like to hear what others are doing. One idea is a small quarter size stick on LED light I could put on the scope so I'm not looking around for it. The problem is the dimmest I can find is about 13 lumens. I could probably somehow put some plastic filter over it. If it is close to the dial, I don't need much brightness. Another thought is one of those rare earth luminous tubes. They will have a much lower output but there is not way to turn them on and off except to cover them. Any other thoughts? I don’t really know of any practical way to illuminate the dial without drawing unwanted attention, so I guess I’m not really answering your question as asked. I can tell you what I do, and have done for many years now. I have long range stands, but only narrow lanes to shoot. This means every second counts, and dialing takes seconds I don’t have. What I do is use Strelok Pro, and memorize the holdover with the specific reticle I’m using. Out to 450 yards I don’t really need any help, but farther out I know what mil or moa line corresponds to the yardage I’m looking to hit. I pre flag all my lanes in 50 yard increments after 500 yards. It works well for me. It would be awesome to be able to gaze at the buck with binos, judge whether he’s a target, pick up the rangefinder, range, and then dial and shoot. That’s how it works in the tv shows anyway. I can’t get my deer to be that cooperative. Lol |
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Post by hillbill on Nov 6, 2022 20:26:11 GMT -5
A story, and I will make a point when done.
Several years back I sold a MZ of mine to a friend, he hunted Illinois as did I.
The gun had a 200 YD zero and he hadn't shot it past that.
I knew the drops with that particular load.
He was hunting out of a barn using a round bale for a rest.
So a big doe comes out at 300+ yds and he started texting me, how far do I hold over? we went back and forth and the deer ended up stopping at 365, his text was how much hold over? I text back with 4" over her back, he text back in about 20 seconds, dead deer.
My point is this, if you know your target animal and your drop in inches, and IF you are comfortable with hold overs dialing is an option, not a necessity.
I try to practice at this, at practical hunting distances 400 yds and under as long as you know your distance simply holding over on the animal is very doable.
it might not work for the masses but being a carpenter by trade I'm very familiar with measurements in inches so it works for me.
Yes I do dial my scope but sometimes you just don't have time to do so.
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Post by yoderjac on Nov 6, 2022 23:08:09 GMT -5
Yep, I did the hold-over thing for years. I've also used yardage reticles. I printed out a drop chart and put it in my stands (I'd refer to it before it got too dark). The bottom line is that I'm getting older and my memory is not what it was. I also have a number of different firearms I use in different situations. I can't keep up with it all like I use to. Thus, the CDS which lets me cheat!
I'm going to try to rig something up on my own. If I come up with something that works, I'll report back for others.
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Post by yoderjac on Nov 24, 2022 12:04:48 GMT -5
Well, here is what I ended up doing. I ordered some electronics that will let me run a single red led from a 3 volt CR2032. It has a switch. I'm thinking of putting the LED in some kind of tube so I can point it at the turret. It comes with a switch so I can turn it on when needed. The electronics are simple. The ingenuity will be figuring out how to attach it to the scope.   Nothing more than a battery holder, switch, and 1 mm red LED. The LED is way too bright and non directional. The next step is to figure out how to connect it to the scope. I'm thinking of inserting the LED into a black straw and putting electrical tape on it, or maybe just a small piece of shrink tube or something and mounting it somehow directly behind the turret so the turret blocks most of the forward light but is illuminated. I'll probably just use Velcro or even a rubber band to attach it to the scope. If it works out, I'll put one on all my CDS scopes. I found some time to work on this little project. I tried several things to dim the LED. I did not want to jump through the hoops to do it electronically. I tried putting colored plastic on it. I considered painting it, but I didn't have any latex paint laying around. I tried using a sharpie but and it was somewhat effective. My next approach was to direct the light. I considered a number options and settled on a pies of UF wire insulation. I cut the insulation to length and then cut and re-spliced the wires on the slight to shorten them. I used heat-shrink to cover the splices. I cut a split in the insulation long enough that I could insert the switch with the button exposed. I then used Velcro to attach the whole thing to the scope. Here is the result:  Here is how it illuminates the dial:  Ignore the glare, that is a function of the camera. You see very little in reality. Here it is in a dark room:  Again, ignore the glare. So, how does it look from a deer's perspective?  The camera was at the end of the barrel looking back at the scope. If you look very close you can see a slight red glow, but very slight. I don't think deer will see much! I think I'll make them for my other CDS scopes! |
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Post by ballistic on Nov 24, 2022 14:47:51 GMT -5
Well, here is what I ended up doing. I ordered some electronics that will let me run a single red led from a 3 volt CR2032. It has a switch. I'm thinking of putting the LED in some kind of tube so I can point it at the turret. It comes with a switch so I can turn it on when needed. The electronics are simple. The ingenuity will be figuring out how to attach it to the scope. View AttachmentNothing more than a battery holder, switch, and 1 mm red LED. The LED is way too bright and non directional. The next step is to figure out how to connect it to the scope. I'm thinking of inserting the LED into a black straw and putting electrical tape on it, or maybe just a small piece of shrink tube or something and mounting it somehow directly behind the turret so the turret blocks most of the forward light but is illuminated. I'll probably just use Velcro or even a rubber band to attach it to the scope. If it works out, I'll put one on all my CDS scopes. I found some time to work on this little project. I tried several things to dim the LED. I did not want to jump through the hoops to do it electronically. I tried putting colored plastic on it. I considered painting it, but I didn't have any latex paint laying around. I tried using a sharpie but and it was somewhat effective. My next approach was to direct the light. I considered a number options and settled on a pies of UF wire insulation. I cut the insulation to length and then cut and re-spliced the wires on the slight to shorten them. I used heat-shrink to cover the splices. I cut a split in the insulation long enough that I could insert the switch with the button exposed. I then used Velcro to attach the whole thing to the scope. Here is the result: View AttachmentHere is how it illuminates the dial: View AttachmentIgnore the glare, that is a function of the camera. You see very little in reality. Here it is in a dark room: View AttachmentAgain, ignore the glare. So, how does it look from a deer's perspective? View AttachmentThe camera was at the end of the barrel looking back at the scope. If you look very close you can see a slight red glow, but very slight. I don't think deer will see much! I think I'll make them for my other CDS scopes! I like what you’re doing. Several years back I modified a red fixed bow pin light-to see the pins in low light. The trick is getting enough light to see your dials but not too much that it will get in the way of seeing through the scope. And you’re doing exactly that. Good work. |
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Post by yoderjac on Nov 24, 2022 21:59:53 GMT -5
You are right, that was the trick. Using the wire insulation to focus the light forward seems to be key in having no issues seeing through the scope. The next trick was dimming the light (I did it with a sharpie) and placing it close enough to the turret that you don't see much if any from the barrel end of the gun.
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