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Post by Deleted on Oct 2, 2015 17:09:11 GMT -5
Hillbill, on the "other" board you posted a great step by step bedding process. Could you re do you process and make it a sticky?
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Post by hillbill on Oct 2, 2015 17:30:16 GMT -5
IF I get time I will try to get it done, it eats up a lot of time to post all those pictures with related jabber but I will get it done in a few days..
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Post by rojo23 on Oct 2, 2015 17:35:41 GMT -5
not to steal Bill's thunder but here is an article by Richard Franklin on bedding. Bill's write up was very good, but I can see it would take forever. This might save you some work Bill. I bought Richard's dvd on bedding and it helped me a bunch. www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.html |
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Post by Deleted on Oct 2, 2015 18:14:23 GMT -5
Thanks Hillbill, it's always nice to go back and look at a thread when your doing a project related to the thread.
I do realize the time it will take to do the thread so no rush.
I do have a question about bedding. I've used modeling clay to fill the trigger area once trigger is removed and the magazine area in action. My question is why not use tape to cover these areas? The main goal (correct me if I am wrong) is to get a good bed around the recoil lug, small section under the barrel in front of the recoil lug, the sides of the action, and the rear tang. So the areas that we put modeling clay on couldn't we just put tape on these areas and after you remove the action and barrel out clean up the bedding in these areas with a dremmel?
I think I explained that well if not I can try to explain my question better.
Thanks for any info.
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Post by hunter on Oct 2, 2015 18:55:44 GMT -5
I am sure others can explain this better but here is my thoughts
The clay will keep the bedding from getting into areas that you don't want it.
If the tape get pushed sideways and the bedding material flows into the areas you don't want it, you would have to clean it out
and may also create a mechanical lock that would not let the action separate from the stock after drying.
The clay is easily removed where the epoxy is not.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 2, 2015 18:59:27 GMT -5
That makes sense, didn't think of the tape moving.
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Post by keith on Oct 2, 2015 19:04:57 GMT -5
I've used Gorilla tape over the trigger cut out and it works. Modeling clay works too and must be used in other places.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 2, 2015 19:36:38 GMT -5
Thanks Hillbill, it's always nice to go back and look at a thread when your doing a project related to the thread. I do realize the time it will take to do the thread so no rush. I do have a question about bedding. I've used modeling clay to fill the trigger area once trigger is removed and the magazine area in action. My question is why not use tape to cover these areas? The main goal (correct me if I am wrong) is to get a good bed around the recoil lug, small section under the barrel in front of the recoil lug, the sides of the action, and the rear tang. So the areas that we put modeling clay on couldn't we just put tape on these areas and after you remove the action and barrel out clean up the bedding in these areas with a dremmel? I think I explained that well if not I can try to explain my question better. Thanks for any info. Why not post the link from the "other" board  |
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Post by Deleted on Oct 2, 2015 19:53:47 GMT -5
Some of the pictures are missing and figured it would look better over here as a thread better than a link.
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Post by hillbill on Oct 2, 2015 20:01:46 GMT -5
some use modeling clay to fill voids, I use plumbers putty, I just like it better. I use tape on some areas, front, sides, bottom of lug OR where you might want to bed but still want to float the area. I also use tape to get a clear defined line where I want to stop the bedding. vinyl tape placed in the stock (so it don't stick) and on the barrel at the same juncture makes a good straight line.
keep in mind that Im no professional, what I know about bedding has come from using about 20 lbs of bedding compound over the years. trial and error and self taught lessons from my own mishaps were my teacher. however some of the so called professional videos on the net make me laugh out loud. keep in mind that bedding doesn't have to be pretty to work well, it does need to be stress free to work. pretty and neat sure do look good on a high dollar gun however..
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Post by Deleted on Oct 2, 2015 20:33:47 GMT -5
Yep ,the other board has some great info. on it that knowledgeable members posted to share with others....It WAS a good thing....I am glad we have kept the same spirit here and will follow suit of sharing knowledge....Thanks Bill....
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Post by dannoboone on Oct 2, 2015 22:46:56 GMT -5
not to steal Bill's thunder but here is an article by Richard Franklin on bedding. Bill's write up was very good, but I can see it would take forever. This might save you some work Bill. I bought Richard's dvd on bedding and it helped me a bunch. www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.htmlMr. Franklin is one guy I wish to have known personally BEFORE he retired. Other than a couple of email exchanges at least. I have his DVD's about how to make a custom ML (for those who have a lathe, anyway). They include instructions for bedding as well as finishing out a raw stock. I used the DVD as well as the article on 6mmbr for methods on bedding. If I do another build, though, it would incorporate some of Bill's methods along with Richard's. There are few minuses to either, and both are chuck full of pluses. And if you forego taping the stock like Richard did, make sure to follow his precautions about using only one end of the q-tips (have a full package of them handy) and keep that can of mineral spirits with a rag close at hand. |
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Post by hillbill on Oct 3, 2015 4:26:15 GMT -5
I have seen Richards video and it is great BUT I do what I do because it works for me, many steps yes but all the taping is for a reason, it makes for less work in the end and much less mess, all my mess comes off with the tape.
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Post by keith on Oct 3, 2015 5:58:13 GMT -5
I have seen Richards video and it is great BUT I do what I do because it works for me, many steps yes but all the taping is for a reason, it makes for less work in the end and much less mess, all my mess comes off with the tape. I agree, lots of steps but a very good tutorial. Your process and mine are almost identical except I run a small line of putty/plasticine on both sides of the recoil lug at the receiver face and barrel shoulder because it leaves a cleaner finish than breaking that edge with a stock scraper. |
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Post by rojo23 on Oct 3, 2015 6:01:06 GMT -5
BIll, I think you nailed it with the tape. I didn't tape my 1st one, and it took forever to clean the excess bedding compound. I have been taping them every since. The prep takes a little longer, but in the end it saves you time.
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