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Post by joelmoney on Mar 29, 2017 23:03:55 GMT -5
I have seen many radial breaks on smokeless muzzleloaders. I am trying to figure why more gill type breaks are not used. The only reason I can think they would be more popular is one dose not have to time them. Are there reasons I am not thinking of for seeming mor radial breaks? Cyclops had a gill break on it in Jeff's video but he said he also had a radial break for it if memory serves me right.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 29, 2017 23:12:28 GMT -5
I installed my first tactical brake on Bubba. I also have a radial for it too. The tactical will likely reduce recoil more than the radial. The tactical ports are aimed to the sides and slightly upward. This negates muzzle rise and doesn't stir up dirt/debris when shooting prone. The downside to the tactical is that it is much more offensive to adjacent shooters.
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Post by schunter on Mar 30, 2017 7:15:52 GMT -5
For me I like the looks of the tactical brake better. I usually warn people on either side of me to be prepared for a blast. They usually don't pay me any attention until I shoot then they do! I blew a towel and scope caps off the bench beside me once. He kind of gave me a look but he couldn't say I didn't warn him. Here is a pic of my Hankins gun with a tactical brake.  |
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Post by aldeerhunter on Mar 30, 2017 11:17:11 GMT -5
Neat question. I hope that others chime in with their opinions.
I have done a lots of reading on brakes, contemplating the same question. From the literature, all brakes are not the same. It seems that the tactical brakes do better at managing recoil and barrel jump. And even then, some of the tactical brakes are rated much more efficient than others.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 30, 2017 12:11:02 GMT -5
And even then, some of the tactical brakes are rated much more efficient than others. Where do you get this information? |
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Post by Richard on Mar 30, 2017 12:32:26 GMT -5
I have talked with many shooters and the effects of the radial vs. tactical brake is not clear cut? There may be a tad more recoil reduction but probably not enough to use as the deciding factor.............and, it is also more noise back at you? I think the tactical brake just appeals to some people more than others. Varmint Al once did a write up on various brakes and felt most all brake act about the same. The bit about dust being kicked up by radial brakes is a moot point as far as I am concerned? How many times have you shot prone, that close to a dusty area where is became a problem? Most of the time you would be on a grassy or other covered area and the dust factor zero. With a muzzle loader you get one shot.........you are not firing repetitive shot thur this alleged dust you may or may not be kicking up? If you want the cool factor and a gun to impress your friends, then the tactical brake may be for you? Just an opinion from an opinionated long time brake shooter.  |
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Post by linebaugh on Mar 30, 2017 12:39:23 GMT -5
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Post by aldeerhunter on Mar 30, 2017 16:53:23 GMT -5
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Post by Hank on Mar 30, 2017 19:17:19 GMT -5
The Great Brake Debate..................!
Personally I prefer the radial brakes over the tactical style. I also think they do a better job at managing recoil and many other long time professional rifle builders and shooters will tell you the same thing. If it is properly bored with step chambers it can and will re-direct as much gas as any tactical style brake. Not to mention they are much easier to install and no timing is required. I once installed a tactical style brake for a customer and when he got the rifle, the first thing he did was take the brake off and put it back on.., he over tightened it, so now it was 5 degrees off. Timing one of these little bastards can be a PIA and then to remove in and re-install it will defiantly cause it to come out of time.
I do have a tactical style brake on the rifle Cyclops, but it was done purely for looks and not that I thought it would work better. Cyclops being the monster that it is, I wanted it to have that wow factor, and not to mention it will blow the guy next to you almost off the bench. LOL.
What it boils down to is have what ever brake you like the best installed on your rifle. You can pay much more for one of those muscle brakes and the kick won't be any less than if you buy one of my $35.00 brakes. They all work very well when properly installed.
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Post by Richard on Mar 30, 2017 19:49:35 GMT -5
To Hank I say...........AMEN!
Most of this hype on the tactical brakes is all about selling product!
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Post by joelmoney on Mar 30, 2017 21:32:21 GMT -5
I had always believed I would use a tactical type breake after cylinder gap from a 460 S&W sticking bark into my face. I am on the fence now trying to figure if in the field it would make any difference for me. Any thoughts about crush washers for alignment of tactical breaks? The muzzle blast redirctor has a lot of my attention at this time. If it does not kill the efficiency of the break I think it is the solution I am looking for. www.kineti-tech.com/kineti-tech-muzzle-brake-with-sound-redirect-with-13-16-x-16-threaded-sleeve-2-piece/ |
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Post by linebaugh on Mar 30, 2017 21:56:37 GMT -5
The Great Brake Debate..................! Personally I prefer the radial brakes over the tactical style. I also think they do a better job at managing recoil and many other long time professional rifle builders and shooters will tell you the same thing. If it is properly bored with step chambers it can and will re-direct as much gas as any tactical style brake. Not to mention they are much easier to install and no timing is required. I once installed a tactical style brake for a customer and when he got the rifle, the first thing he did was take the brake off and put it back on.., he over tightened it, so now it was 5 degrees off. Timing one of these little bastards can be a PIA and then to remove in and re-install it will defiantly cause it to come out of time. I do have a tactical style brake on the rifle Cyclops, but it was done purely for looks and not that I thought it would work better. Cyclops being the monster that it is, I wanted it to have that wow factor, and not to mention it will blow the guy next to you almost off the bench. LOL. What it boils down to is have what ever brake you like the best installed on your rifle. You can pay much more for one of those muscle brakes and the kick won't be any less than if you buy one of my $35.00 brakes. They all work very well when properly installed. What he said. I timed my first gill brake of my own design last yr and it was a pain in the azz. Are there better brakes than others? Probably yes. How much better? Probably under 5% at best if cut correct. Did my gill style brake cost that much? Um-no and it will do the same thing as all of them when installed correctly. I am installing another gill brake which I do believe give that extra cpl .1 % gain and look cool as hell doing it. I will not install one for anyone else because they are a pain in the butt and as stated will change when removed and re-installed. I think I have a way around this but that's for me only as I am not babysitting the rest of the guys out there. So the reason I posted that link is simply because it's the most useful and in my opinion one of the best thought out and implemented tests done on brakes to date. The testing is geared toward PRS shooters who need to have minimal muzzle movement to see impacts which also includes mitigating recoil. Is it the final word? Nope. Do I have any say or cares in the outcome? Nope. It's just a great evaluation of brakes and a means of educating yourself. As stated a brake that costs $300 probably has little gain over the $35 brake and I won't pay for it personally as I am too cheap. |
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