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Post by kskaggs on Mar 15, 2017 9:09:43 GMT -5
First off its not a muzzleloader action its a savage 212 action that I made into a turkey shoot gun. Scold me later for posting it here I need help!!! I just bedded the recoil lug and the area by the front action screw and the very end of the forearm area. Boyds pro varmit. Jb weld and used the same release agent that I used for the pillars and had no problem. Action will not come out taped recoil lug on front bottom and sides. Havent got super physical with it yet. And again sorry for putting this here but I know the bedding pros will answer. Thanks Kevin |
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Post by Deleted on Mar 15, 2017 10:30:27 GMT -5
Sometimes a short smack on the barrel to break it free works...Good Luck...I have not heard of bedding the end of a forend before ? What reason did you do that..? Always wanting to learn something here.
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Post by Richard on Mar 15, 2017 10:46:20 GMT -5
If it were me ( I have had a couple of tight ones when I first started playing with this stuff) I would get a brass or aluminum rod in the rear of the action long enough that you can get some leverage on against the rear of the stock and then slip something under the barrel and forearm to exert upward pressure in an alternating fashion (like wiggling it front to back.) With pressure on both points (you may need a helper) tap on the top of the recoil lug/action with a non-marring hammer (brass, nylon whatever)This may break it loose! You could also use a block of wood and lay it on the stock alongside the recoil lug and have some one tap on it while you apply pressure or you could carefully apply some heat to the metal. (this is only applicable if the epoxy is stuck to the metal- with the release on it, it should not be stuck)
First of all, you should never fully bed the lug. put masking tape on the sides, bottom and the side facing the muzzle. ONLY bed the part that makes contact with the abutment.
Your problem is not so much the release agent but the fact the lug is encapsulated in the epoxy and need to come straight up.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 15, 2017 10:47:16 GMT -5
I usually clamp the barrel in padded vise jaws or a barrel vise. Then strike the fore end of the stock with the heel of your hand or cover with a rag and use a rubber mallet. Since you bedded the very end of the fore end, it might be a good idea to freeze the entire gun first. This will cause the barreled action to shrink, which will help break the bond.
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Post by kskaggs on Mar 15, 2017 10:54:46 GMT -5
Lazer, This is a 36 inch shooting match shot gun barrel the boyds stock has a void area where the swing swivel studs are that area has to remain accessible because an aluminum plate is attached there. That's why you can only bed the end for support. Rich I did tape recoil lug on every side but the front. I guess I am going to have to get a little more aggressive!!! I read somewhere about heating the action with an iron to warm up the epoxy but I thought that might ruin the bedding job. I don't have to get it apart right now but eventually I am going to need to. Anybody ever used the iron method?
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Post by linebaugh on Mar 15, 2017 11:41:46 GMT -5
Losen the screws a half turn and go shoot the gun a couple times. It will fall out unless you are mechanically locked.
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Post by 10gaauto on Mar 15, 2017 12:29:43 GMT -5
Losen the screws a half turn and go shoot the gun a couple times. It will fall out unless you are mechanically locked.
Never thought of that. Always something to learn.
Use magnums or slugs, plenty of "shock" there. 10 ga
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Post by kskaggs on Mar 15, 2017 12:38:32 GMT -5
I'm going to a shoot tonight Linebaugh so we will find out!!!!
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Post by linebaugh on Mar 15, 2017 12:45:18 GMT -5
Losen the screws a half turn and go shoot the gun a couple times. It will fall out unless you are mechanically locked.
Never thought of that. Always something to learn.
Use magnums or slugs, plenty of "shock" there. 10 ga
You wont need the magnums. I am lucky and live in the coutry so if I can't get a gun out of the stock with nearly no effort I simply walk out back and shoot them with the screws tight. Even on light recoiling guns they will pop right out typically. If that doesnt work I take a half turn off the screws and repeat the process. Note that this wont work if you dont have the trigger group installed. Lol. |
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Post by kskaggs on Mar 15, 2017 15:40:35 GMT -5
Its ready to shoot!!! trigger is in!!
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Post by kskaggs on Mar 16, 2017 7:02:58 GMT -5
Linebaugh wins the turkey!!! Shot it about 10 times at the match and it came right out this morning. Thanks to all replies I don't think I am gonna use the same release agent next time. Kevin
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Post by Deleted on Mar 16, 2017 8:11:57 GMT -5
Kudos to Linebaugh. Just goes to show there more than one way to skin the cat!
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Post by linebaugh on Mar 16, 2017 8:26:13 GMT -5
Linebaugh wins the turkey!!! Shot it about 10 times at the match and it came right out this morning. Thanks to all replies I don't think I am gonna use the same release agent next time. Kevin I wouldn't mind hearing about this turkey shoot stuff. It's the same as card shooting right? I have skimmed over the subject a cpl times but if I remember right you use heavy loads of small shot and the goal is to punch the entire target out of a piece of card stock??? Or I could be 2 miles off on that? Anyway if you don't mind sharing I'd sure like to learn more adout it. Gun, shells, objective...... |
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Post by jims on Mar 16, 2017 10:22:12 GMT -5
I had never heard about firing the firearm to help loosen it from the bedding. Good information to know.
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Post by dannoboone on Mar 16, 2017 11:31:49 GMT -5
Pray tell, what was the release agent you used? Knowing what NOT
to use can be as important as knowing what to use. I use Kiwi clear
boot polish, but have been known to misplace the can.
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Post by dennis on Mar 16, 2017 11:57:36 GMT -5
Pray tell, what was the release agent you used? Knowing what NOT to use can be as important as knowing what to use. I use Kiwi clear boot polish, but have been known to misplace the can. +1 Kiwi works great for me too. |
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Post by Richard on Mar 16, 2017 15:32:00 GMT -5
If skaggs release agent worked in previous beddings I would suspect the lug got mechanically locked and the shooting was enough to loosen it for removal!
Particularly when I am bedding that section of the barrel about 1 to 2" forward of the lug?....I put masking tape on the four sides of the recoil lug PLUS a thin coating of clay (NO NOT MY DUPLEX POWDER:))--(modeling clay) on the forward taped lug.
Anytime you completely encapsulate the lug, even if you get it apart, it make future disassembly and assembly of the barreled action a PIA! Plus you stand the chance of chipping off the epoxy and getting a tiny piece lodged at the bottom of the lug recess!
Another hint I have found is to use a fine file and just break the edges on recoil lug so chipping does not occur.
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Post by kskaggs on Mar 16, 2017 19:35:50 GMT -5
Linebaugh you are correct about the card shooting but we also board shoot as well and it is closest to an x that you put on a cedar or pine board you pay for the amount of centers or x's it's all luck because it is a shot gun but you increase you chances by the amount of shot you put in the board. The gun I use is a savage 212 with a 36 inch .730 bore with a match chamber. The release agent was Dr Martens boot wax or protectant. I think Rich is right about the recoil lug being the problem area but it went right back together I was super worried!! Anyway I'm not taking any chances using that as a release agent!! And again thanks for all the replies this board has a wealth of knowledge on it!! Kevin
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