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Post by Richard on Mar 9, 2017 12:14:36 GMT -5
Well, my leg cooperated enough that I got down to the shop and cleaned my muzzle loader from a week and a half ago's brief shooting at the range (21 shots). Every week after my range sessions I remove the HIS breech plug at home. I always remove the hollow set screw retainer for the bushing. Why??? From time to time I have changed it for one reason or another and when I do, I need to be able to remove that screw! As of lately, it has been giving me the BUTT, trying to get it out. I have had to resort to some heat as I did not want to strip out the hex hole or the allen wrench. So, prior to the last range session, I decided to not only machine the bottom of the screw flat (for a better seal) but also to use blue teflon tape (a few wraps) on the screw plus a little anti-seize. (had used just anti-seize in the past). Anyway, this time, while still fairly tight, it did break loose! Now note, prior to attempting to remove it I run a bottoming tap all the way in until it touches the screw. This cleans out any carbon in the threads. I also put a shot of Kroil in. I know some NEVER remove the screw and that is fine ... however if you ever needed to remove it, there could be a problem. I just figure as long I remove the plug anyway, I might as well remove the screw. The bushing itself is easily removed by inserting a small 10/32 screw in from the primer side and then placing both in bench vise and pushing the bushing free. On the other hand, if you should strip the set screw then you are in for a project if you don't have a lathe..................................................or toss the plug and buy a new one!  |
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Post by Deleted on Mar 9, 2017 13:17:38 GMT -5
I cut the threads out up to the retaining ring and also use a grade 8 retaining ring.
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Post by Richard on Mar 10, 2017 10:52:12 GMT -5
I had considered that also Jerry but thought that if I should decide to use a 3/8" long bushing (vs. Hank's 1/4" one) I would be a thread or two short? Its not the exposed threads that causes the problem so running the tap in takes just a second! The biggest problem is getting the screw to break loose its carbon bond. What you are doing is actually making the receptacle for powder larger........somewhat like when we were doing the "recessed BP" thing. Is it good or bad? Who knows? My thought here was to just give members an option to getting that screw loose.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 10, 2017 15:46:27 GMT -5
If you use bearing retainer on the lock ring, carbon can't build up locking the screw in. Then a little heat and it will thread out smooth a butter.
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Post by Richard on Mar 10, 2017 19:23:24 GMT -5
Jerry...........I have never used bearing retainer? You say.....use a little heat? Does it melt with heat? I would prefer not to have to heat it if the Teflon tape works............which this time it did.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 10, 2017 22:01:21 GMT -5
The bearing retainer melts at a relatively low temperature. Much less than 500 degrees. Next time I remove one, I will check it with my infrared thermometer when the bearing retainer starts bubbling. Seriously, the lock rings come out as if they are greased.
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Post by Richard on Mar 11, 2017 11:03:40 GMT -5
OK, thanks! BTW, are you talking about the products from Lock-tite like the green 609 (which I have) or the 680, 620 and 641? or something different? (there were a few other listed that were pretty pricey?)
Thanks
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Post by Deleted on Mar 11, 2017 11:22:42 GMT -5
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Post by Deleted on Mar 11, 2017 14:14:52 GMT -5
I.should have specified. Yes, green loctite 609 bearing retainer. My rheory is that it fills the space around the retaining ring threads, keeping carbon out. Then when warmed up it melts and releases.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 11, 2017 14:39:27 GMT -5
Jerry, where are you getting 'green' loctite 609??
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Post by Deleted on Mar 11, 2017 15:30:00 GMT -5
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Post by Deleted on Mar 11, 2017 15:58:43 GMT -5
cool, same exact thing.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 11, 2017 19:35:29 GMT -5
I was close. According to the datasheet, the removal temp is 482 degrees F
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Post by 12ptdroptine on Mar 11, 2017 22:20:58 GMT -5
Is there a shelf life on this after it has been opened? I bought a small bottle of it but not sure it's green...just can't remember . But since I started using it I haven't had a bushing crack. drop |
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Post by Deleted on Mar 11, 2017 23:06:10 GMT -5
Is there a shelf life on this after it has been opened? I bought a small bottle of it but not sure it's green...just can't remember . But since I started using it I haven't had a bushing crack. drop I'm sure there is but my bottle is at least 5 years old and still works fine. I have a bottle of something similar that is also green called Suzuki Super Lock. I've had it since the 80's and I use it on things I don't plan on taking apart. I use it on bushings too but be advised. Make sure to remove the excess because if it gets in the vent hole you will have to heat it or drill it with a .030" bit to clear the hole. |
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Post by Richard on Mar 12, 2017 10:36:27 GMT -5
I know the thread is getting a little long but there doesn't seem to be much other stuff going on, so I will mention another thought along these lines. Probably a little J-B Weld, Marine-Tex or Devcon on the threads will do the same thing. They will also break loose with a little heat and by the same token, seal any voids in the threads.
I will still be using the teflon tape as long as I can still remove the screw without any heat. By the way, to make adding the tape a little easier?.........I put the Allen wrench in the vise with the screw setting on top. It makes for a sturdy format to apply the tape!
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Post by GMB54-120 on Mar 12, 2017 11:42:15 GMT -5
Green Loctite is a POST assembly thread locker. In other words you apply it after assembly and it will wick into the threads. Let it set 24hrs or more to cure.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 12, 2017 11:46:58 GMT -5
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Post by GMB54-120 on Mar 12, 2017 11:51:19 GMT -5
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Post by Deleted on Mar 12, 2017 20:04:28 GMT -5
A lot of different ways to skin the cat. Just goes to show that you have to look at the number on the bottle instead of color only because 609 is far too thick to be used in a POST assembly application. Anyway, I think the horse is dead. We have wrapped his tongue in teflon tape, drown him with thin green loctite and glued his mouth shut with 609 bearing retainer. LOL
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