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Post by doug136 on Jan 16, 2017 12:33:53 GMT -5
Richard has me thinking . Let's say a guy has a small profile barrel . Would there ever be a benefit to completely bed the action and barrel . From what I have read I think they use to do that years ago. Also I thought it might help this gun with only one pillar ? Would bedding the entire stock help with heat when the barrel heats up or with barrel whip ? I suppose heat may make things worse buy fully bedding?
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Post by jims on Jan 16, 2017 12:36:42 GMT -5
I tried this on one small shank and it did not shoot well so I ended up removing the bedding. It may work for some but it did not on my wood stock.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 16, 2017 12:57:21 GMT -5
With your current set up how much clearance does your barrel have?
With my McRem I have a crazy amount of clearance it just happened to be that way when I finished my first bedding attempt.
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Post by doug136 on Jan 16, 2017 14:51:33 GMT -5
Well with this stock none at the bottom
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Post by Deleted on Jan 16, 2017 16:45:17 GMT -5
My McRem is the first rifle I bedded. I watched a ton of videos and asked a lot of questions. The one video I saved for bedding a rifle has been deleted but I liked how he did his video and the process he used. I know my bedding job isn't perfect but it works, I think.  One thing I did was tape my barrel near the end of my forearm enough so it would hold the barrel up and center the barrel in the forearm barrel channel. I only bedded out about 1/2" from recoil lug and the whole action. It is pillar bedded as well. If you have no clearance under your barrel I'd start there. Jeff, Elkman, Richard, Hillbill and other builders probably have a way better way of bedding and they would be the right person to ask your questions. My two rifles to their 1000's bedded are no comparison. Good luck. |
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Post by hillbill on Jan 16, 2017 18:11:44 GMT -5
for what you will be doing I would not think of full length bedding, when you heat the barrel up the bedded portion will hold heat while the top side is open to the ambient temp be it hot or cold, I would bed about 4" in front of wherever the action screw is, that should take any rear whip out of the action caused by barrel leverage.
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Post by Richard on Jan 16, 2017 19:17:32 GMT -5
Chad. I do the exact same thing. Once I have a generous clearance around the barrel, I put several layers of masking tape either around the barrel or across the end of the forend. That way when I do my bedding, I know I have my clearances set, I like to allow at least two or three business card clearance. On large heavy barrels will bed up to two inches forward of the recoil lug. All my long range BR guns are bedded the same way.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 16, 2017 22:55:34 GMT -5
Found the video of the guy bedding a Remington that I tried to follow. Pretty good video for someone wanting to learn.
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Post by doug136 on Jan 17, 2017 8:51:42 GMT -5
Thank you riverat I appreciate it and very helpful. I want to learn how to do some of this stuff
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Post by hillbill on Jan 17, 2017 15:29:04 GMT -5
there are tons of videos out there on bedding, some good, some terrible. Like Richard said, make sure you have plenty of free float and be sure you get release agent on all metal parts.
bedding is not hard, some are afraid to try it but as long as you have release agent on your parts it's nothing that can't be redone if you did flub. keep in mind that bedding need not be pretty to be functional but it sure makes you feel better when you take your gun out of the stock and your friend say's "man, that looks great", will you do mine?
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Post by doug136 on Jan 17, 2017 21:30:25 GMT -5
What do you use for a release agent ?
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Post by Deleted on Jan 17, 2017 22:05:52 GMT -5
Clear shoe polish is a go to for most people. I tried Hornady One Shot Case Lube with no issues.
I was reading more about bedding last night and one thing I read was making sure all the little nuks and crannies are filled with plummers putty and that you don't allow the bedding compound above the half way mark on the receiver. This is where the mechanical lock happens. Once I read that it made more sense and I feel more confident on my next bedding process. Both of my first ones I was pretty nervous I could have ruined a rifle.
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Post by doug136 on Jan 18, 2017 8:50:00 GMT -5
I'm gonna give it a try . I'm not real worried I work with these types of materials about every day . I figure at worst (at least I hope ) I'll just ruin the stock . I really appreciate all the info . I'm a little worried that my Sightron scope is bad or my leupold rings . That may be my whole problem ? I'm putting on a picattini rail and a matched machined set of Vortex rings first . Richard has me concerned after blowing his scope up . This gun is fairly light and I'm not using a brake . To me it has as much recoil as any of my guns just shooting Blackhorn . I'm gonna make some changes this weekend and see what happens . Thanks again to everyone
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Post by Deleted on Jan 18, 2017 8:57:19 GMT -5
You can also need the scope base as well. What I did was mount the front and checked to see if the rear had a gap between the base and action. You could push on the scope base and hear and see it tapping on the action. What I did was roughed up the scope base with a Dremel then applied release agent on the action then used JB Weld to apply on the base. Then I attached the front then cleaned up any excess on the rear. Once everything set I took the base back of and drilled out the holes for the rear. I also filled the screw holes on the action with plumbers putty. This way the base is not causing any extra torque on the scope.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 18, 2017 10:23:48 GMT -5
I'm gonna give it a try . I'm not real worried I work with these types of materials about every day . I figure at worst (at least I hope ) I'll just ruin the stock . I really appreciate all the info . I'm a little worried that my Sightron scope is bad or my leupold rings . That may be my whole problem ? I'm putting on a picattini rail and a matched machined set of Vortex rings first . Richard has me concerned after blowing his scope up . This gun is fairly light and I'm not using a brake . To me it has as much recoil as any of my guns just shooting Blackhorn . I'm gonna make some changes this weekend and see what happens . Thanks again to everyone Getting your scope mounted correctly is about as important as anything else. Read and research about bedding the scope base and making sure the gun and base are straight, level, plumb and square. Harry Potterfield has a nice little video out there on it. Others here have excellent insight into that process as well. www.youtube.com/results?search_query=bedding+a+scope+base |
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