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Post by 12ptdroptine on Jan 11, 2017 10:09:29 GMT -5
I have a small shank action. If I build without the barrel nut there should be no problem. Shouldnt I be able to order a barrel blank in the same od as the action. The barrel tenon wil be encased in the action. And the only exposed barrel will be that large diameter. Thusfore avoiding the "hazard"of the small shank diameter. Tell me your thoughts. Shouldne it be just like rebarreling a Remington? Drop
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Post by Deleted on Jan 11, 2017 10:47:16 GMT -5
What will be the thickness of the barrel in front of the breechplug..? IMO that would be the issue of concern.
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Post by fishhawk on Jan 11, 2017 12:05:50 GMT -5
I have a small shank action. If I build without the barrel nut there should be no problem. Shouldnt I be able to order a barrel blank in the same od as the action. The barrel tenon wil be encased in the action. And the only exposed barrel will be that large diameter. Thusfore avoiding the "hazard"of the small shank diameter. Tell me your thoughts. Shouldne it be just like rebarreling a Remington? Drop Yep, what you said, as long as the headspacing is machined properly in the barrel for the breechplug.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 11, 2017 12:25:42 GMT -5
I have a small shank action. If I build without the barrel nut there should be no problem. Shouldnt I be able to order a barrel blank in the same od as the action. The barrel tenon wil be encased in the action. And the only exposed barrel will be that large diameter. Thusfore avoiding the "hazard"of the small shank diameter. Tell me your thoughts. Shouldne it be just like rebarreling a Remington? Drop It will be exactly like rebarreling a Remington and will be headspaced like any other rifle that doesn't use a barrel nut.
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Post by sa1000 on Jan 11, 2017 12:37:17 GMT -5
Jeff built my savage with out the nut.
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Post by 12ptdroptine on Jan 11, 2017 13:09:02 GMT -5
All of my Savages are built without a nut.Except for the one behimd the but. This is my first smkls M conversion from 7 years ago. Sold it to my Godson Worried about rupture down the road if an accident would occur. So we are going to sell the Pacnor small shank and hang a Krieger fat girl on it.I like Fat barrels Drop
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Post by claydawg on Jan 11, 2017 14:07:24 GMT -5
Safe move, but short of double loading I haven't seen or heard of many small shank ruptures, especially in a Brux or Krieger barrel. I would assume Pacnor uses the same grade of steel. I understand the concern, but haven't seen the rupture theory played out. I have both a large and small shank conversion and I don't push the small one quite as hard, but have shot some pretty stout loads with no pressure signs. I am not willing to try 78 grains of imr 4198, as I do with the large.
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Post by 12ptdroptine on Jan 11, 2017 15:16:48 GMT -5
Safe move, but short of double loading I haven't seen or heard of many small shank ruptures, especially in a Brux or Krieger barrel. I would assume Pacnor uses the same grade of steel. I understand the concern, but haven't seen the rupture theory played out. I have both a large and small shank conversion and I don't push the small one quite as hard, but have shot some pretty stout loads with no pressure signs. I am not willing to try 78 grains of imr 4198, as I do with the large. The last sentence is exactly my point Drop
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Post by claydawg on Jan 11, 2017 15:49:36 GMT -5
Understood........Everyone should do what makes them feel safe..........but the point I'm making is that no one I am aware of can tell you the small shank won't stand up to 78 grains. Small shanks have been labeled as less than capable. Is this based on factual pressure test and rupture experience? I am unaware of any such experience or testing.
In my small shank, I've worked up to 75 grains with no signs of pressure. I hesitate to post this, but will repeat "it may not be safe in your gun". I have a custom plug with a shelf and the gun was headspaced for a deep crush fit. At 2975 fps, I would argue that the gun is in the same league as my large shank at 78 grains and 3050 fps all other things constant. If I ever double load (and I hope I won't) I hope its with the large shank.
I primarily hunt with the small shank, as it weighs 4 lbs less (9lbs vs 13.5lbs).
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Post by jims on Jan 11, 2017 15:58:27 GMT -5
I thought Savage had some severe overpowder loads they tested even on the small shanks. I do not recall the barrel splitting, the breech plug held and bulging. If standard approved loads are used IMO one is fine. As with any firearm the wrong type of powder, too much powder, an obstruction etc. can cause troubles but that is self induced. We must be careful, use a witness mark and not try to make these firearms something they are not. If big loads get a bigger barrel.
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Post by 12ptdroptine on Jan 11, 2017 16:13:27 GMT -5
However I didn't make it clear this is a Savage MLII small shank reciever. Will that make any difference? Drop
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Post by Deleted on Jan 11, 2017 17:39:43 GMT -5
No difference at all other than the fact that it will need to remain a 209 gun
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Post by 12ptdroptine on Jan 11, 2017 18:58:48 GMT -5
Thanks Scat. Claydawg. It's not about the integrity of the small shank barrel. It is about the insurance that if my son would get distracted and make a mistake loading it . Somebody's less likely to get hurt. 75gns of H4198 and a 250gn bullet is safe in your gun. BUT is That same load doubled going to bulge? Or rupture that barrel. I don't know and for sure don't want to test it on my son. He is very new to muzzle loading. And this is all just insurance to avoid a mishap. He wants to advance to hot loads with this gun. So I am thinking this is the safest route. I was pretty sure it would work but came here for reassurance.. This is why I love FAT barrels....lol drop
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Post by claydawg on Jan 11, 2017 20:08:33 GMT -5
Thanks Scat. Claydawg. It's not about the integrity of the small shank barrel. It is about the insurance that if my son would get distracted and make a mistake loading it . Somebody's less likely to get hurt. 75gns of H4198 and a 250gn bullet is safe in your gun. BUT is That same load doubled going to bulge? Or rupture that barrel. I don't know and for sure don't want to test it on my son. He is very new to muzzle loading. And this is all just insurance to avoid a mishap. He wants to advance to hot loads with this gun. So I am thinking this is the safest route. I was pretty sure it would work but came here for reassurance.. This is why I love FAT barrels....lol drop Fully understand.......I would want my son using the safest possible. I just wanted to know if you knew something I didn't about the smallshank barrels. As I mentioned, I push mine pretty hard, but it is so much lighter and manageable than my large shank. I've read a lot lately regarding the small shank not safe unless shot with light loads and I have had a different experience and my loads are not light
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Post by linebaugh on Jan 11, 2017 20:24:13 GMT -5
I have a small shank action. If I build without the barrel nut there should be no problem. Shouldnt I be able to order a barrel blank in the same od as the action. The barrel tenon wil be encased in the action. And the only exposed barrel will be that large diameter. Thusfore avoiding the "hazard"of the small shank diameter. Tell me your thoughts. Shouldne it be just like rebarreling a Remington? Drop You have this exactly right. I did my .510 smokeless this way and the only downside I see for a .458 is weight. You don't seem concerned about weight so I think you are golden in your thought process.
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Post by Richard on Jan 11, 2017 21:05:15 GMT -5
When you think about it Russ, most of the barrel inside the action has the breech plug. Bulges that have occurred take place further out from the action............in the area were the bullet seats.
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