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Post by doug136 on Jan 5, 2017 21:22:13 GMT -5
This may be the wrong place to ask this question . I just bought a gun that has a Boyd's Pro Varmint stock . The stock is painted black . I personally hate black stocks . The stock is actually a laminate but it looks like it's just brown . Could I stain a laminate stock some other color
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Post by Deleted on Jan 5, 2017 21:34:17 GMT -5
I don't see why not, I'd try to strip all the paint off sand it then stain it the color you want then put a few clear coats on.
I'm going to order a pro varmint from Boyds with my "build in progress" and plan is to strip it then sand some areas down for better feel then going to duracoat the stock unless I come up with a better idea.
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Post by 12ptdroptine on Jan 5, 2017 21:43:20 GMT -5
Laminate is a pretty word for "Plywood". The individual layers are stained different colors to give the color of the stock. Before they are glued together. The end grain takes the stain deeper....then the glue comes in to play. Anything that permiates in to the wood layers seals them. So it may problematic getting any stain of another color to take. I have often wondered if the black ones were chosen because of color flaws in another.
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Post by rlp10ml on Jan 5, 2017 21:47:20 GMT -5
My Buddy stained his Pepper Laminate Thumbhole.It was some sort of Med. Oak Stain he used.It turned out really nice,kinda looked like bark of a tree...
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Post by 12ptdroptine on Jan 5, 2017 21:58:34 GMT -5
Oh no doubt its possible. Just might be a surprize what it turns out like. Might strip it and bleach the stock. Then wipe it.down real good wit a product called cleanwood. And let it dry god and have,better results.i used to do this for a.living
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Post by jims on Jan 5, 2017 22:56:16 GMT -5
I tried two laminates and they did not turn out well.
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Post by dannoboone on Jan 6, 2017 1:30:16 GMT -5
I just bought a gun that has a Boyd's Pro Varmint stock . The stock is painted black . I personally hate black stocks . The stock is actually a laminate but it looks like it's just brown . Could I stain a laminate stock some other color Totally agree with ya about black stocks. I don't know why Boyds offers the ProVarmint in only black unless one goes custom when many other stocks are offered in different laminate colors without going custom. Does the glue appear to be darker than the wood? All of my laminate stocks have darker glue than the wood which sets off the wood rather nicely. I'm thinking that if you just put a coat of whatever clear finish you desire, that it would turn out similar to the Savage factory laminated stocks, or Boyds "Nutmeg". If one wanted it darker, a stain would probably make it look better. Since the different layers are probably from different trees or different parts of the same tree, they would probably stain differently, but that has a pleasing effect in my view. |
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Post by doug136 on Jan 6, 2017 13:09:29 GMT -5
I realize that the laminate stocks are already the color they want before clearing . The stock looks like just wood color under the barrel . I never thought about it but those Savages were just a light brown laminate stock .They didn't look to bad. I just hate black stocks . If I'm gonna have a black stock it might as well be plastic ! I would order a different stock but I can't. I guess I could paint the stock if I can't get stain and clear to look like I want .
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Post by Richard on Jan 6, 2017 15:58:41 GMT -5
I believe you can get the ProVarmint painted black, OD green or any of the laminate wood colors. So why would you buy it in black and then strip it? Just buy it in one of laminate colors and save the "stripping?" It is possible the stocks they paint black, have been laminated out of the same color wood for all the layers? Might keep their cost down? Just thinking out loud?
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Post by Hank on Jan 6, 2017 18:03:54 GMT -5
The painted versions of the Pro Varmint have always been just plain birch wood. No color added. So it would be possible to strip all the paint off and stain it to a color you want. It would be a lot of work but It could be done.... You will run the chance that they used one of their laminated colors because it had a defect in it and they just fill the defect with bondo and paint it. This keeps them from throwing away an otherwise perfectly good stock....
I do know one thing... Stocky's quality has gone way down hill in the last year or so, They need to step up their quality control and spend a little more time on the fit and finish. Especially in the recoil pad grinding department.
Doug.
You could sand (file) the stock to fit your hands, add a palm swell and finger groves if you want, fill in any defective places with bondo, apply a few good wet coats of 2K primer and sand, apply another coat or two of primer if needed and then you could paint the stock with automotive color and clear it to a slick as glass finish.... I'm thinking a tri color of pearl white, with a hand painted black pinstripe.......
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Post by doug136 on Jan 6, 2017 20:58:51 GMT -5
Richard it came that way . This particular gun is the only way I could get it .(black) Hank I was thinking the same thing about painting the stock . I have some polyester primer that would fill wood grain great . Hank will the laminate take the stain pretty good providing it's a good stock . I mean can I stain it any color ?
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Post by Hank on Jan 7, 2017 9:00:28 GMT -5
I'm not sure how well it will except the stain. Some of the woods pores are already filled with the glue they use to bond the laminates, so those pores will not except the stain the same way as the wood that has open pores.. All you can do is try it and see what happens.
If you do prime it, mix your primer thin as you can get away with, this way it will soak into the wood. It might take several coats to fill the pores and sand out smooth..
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Post by doug136 on Jan 7, 2017 11:19:18 GMT -5
Ok thanks Hank everything makes sense . I would not of thought to thin the primer . Just curious why thin ? I have several 2K primers and a polyester primer that I use over bondo first . It dries hard like a egg shell or gel coat . It keeps repaired spots from sand scratch swelling . Really it's like spraying liquid bondo.Fills and holds excellent. Then I go over that with a good Urathane 2K primer . I realize thinning the primer will allow it to soak in the wood . Does that make it more durable?
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Post by Hank on Jan 7, 2017 12:59:40 GMT -5
Thinning the primer just a little will allow it to soak into the pores of the wood. If you use to thick of a primer it will fill over the pores. After it dries for several weeks or get warm in the sun you will be able to see the pores again. Kinda like sand scratch swelling. I know you have seen that before.
I use a 2k primer that nixes a little on the thin side, I don't add any extra thinner to it, I also spray it on wet to allow it to fill in and soak for a minute or two before it starts to flash off. The first coat is the most important. Sags, runs, and or orange peel can be sanded out so if you have a bad spot to fill lay it on thick. If it's real bad fill it first with bondo.
You know how to do this, just imagine the wood is a car fender with a dent in it, and prepare it pretty much the same way.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 7, 2017 13:16:32 GMT -5
Thinning the primer just a little will allow it to soak into the pores of the wood. If you use to thick of a primer it will fill over the pores. After it dries for several weeks or get warm in the sun you will be able to see the pores again. Kinda like sand scratch swelling. I know you have seen that before. I use a 2k primer that nixes a little on the thin side, I don't add any extra thinner to it, I also spray it on wet to allow it to fill in and soak for a minute or two before it starts to flash off. The first coat is the most important. Sags, runs, and or orange peel can be sanded out so if you have a bad spot to fill lay it on thick. If it's real bad fill it first with bondo. You know how to do this, just imagine the wood is a car fender with a dent in it, and prepare it pretty much the same way. Do you guys use an air brush to do this? |
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Post by doug136 on Jan 7, 2017 13:54:00 GMT -5
I won't I'm just gonna use one of my regular paint guns . Although if you use a air brush gun or a touch up gun you will use less material but I doubt very much you will be able to spray primer through a air brush gun . The needle and head will be to small .
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Post by 12ptdroptine on Jan 7, 2017 15:00:37 GMT -5
Saturate the finish with that thin primer Doug. Let it soak in and dry and cure well. Then do it again. I wonder how an epoxy primer would work for this? Build it up and let it cure completely....sand it down and hit it again. Just allow plenty of time for cure and shrinkage before you head in to the finish cote process.
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Post by 12ptdroptine on Jan 7, 2017 15:06:33 GMT -5
Just had a thought. Some wood workers use stabilized wood. The process involves.(I believe). Putting the piece in a vacum container and adding the resin while under vacum. Sounds crazy I know. But IF you could strip that stock....put it in one of those long food saver bags with the primwr in it and create a vacum and imregnate the primer in the wood. Would it make it harder?.....as I said ....just a thought.
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Post by doug136 on Jan 7, 2017 22:02:18 GMT -5
I'm hoping I can stain and refinish . I'll just have to strip it down and see what I have . I'm gonna shoot the gun tom and seehow it shoots before I do anything . Thanks guys ! As always you guys are very helpful !
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