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Post by Richard on Sept 7, 2015 13:34:06 GMT -5
Will do!
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Post by 12ptdroptine on Sept 7, 2015 15:59:49 GMT -5
Richard...would you please send me the pics also? Thank You Russell
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Post by Richard on Sept 7, 2015 19:11:59 GMT -5
I will put them on this thread Russ.
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Post by 12ptdroptine on Sept 8, 2015 5:33:34 GMT -5
Thank You Richard Russ
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Post by Richard on Sept 8, 2015 22:08:14 GMT -5
OK, here we go! free uploadupload jpgimage hosting over 2mbHere is th story from Bill who did this work: First of all, he reloacated the adjustment handle behind the rear leg. He shoots lefty and that was he way he wanted it? As you progress from the handle towards the cable, there is piece that the cable goes thru. That is source for a lot of looseness. I suggested he make a washer, preferably fat with a hole only a couple of thousandths larger than the cable housing........and epoxy it to the original piece. That gives that piece of cable housing less wiggle room. He put on the washer but did not epoxy it? If it was mine I would have epoxied it or drilled and screwed it to the existing piece...Be that as it may. He found that no lubricant whatsoever on the interior of the cable housing works the best. He tried oil, WD-40 and other lubricants and seem to create resistance. Bill also took apart the entire upper part of the rest (the parts that slide) and deburred all edges for a smoother interaction. NO grease or oil here either. Bill said those two small springs on the right side? They were too stiff and were cause for the cable bind and move. If you look close, you will see he has a spring attached to a fixture. There is one of the front and one on the back. These have less tension and work better. You will also see a brace he made which helps support the cable. I don't want to be negative on Bill's work because it does make the top mover very well in response to the turning of the handle but here is my problem with the entire setup. If you push on the left side of the upper rest, it will slide over to the right? I don't have an unmodified one here to know if they also will slide from left to right with hand pressure....? All the front bench rest type rests I know of want the upper assembly that holds the rifle to be as rigid as possible. If you look at Bill rest, there is white tube running across the the two front legs? That is PVC filled with lead shot. It is there to help hold down the rest. Your custom rests go to the trouble of using a one inch or larger shaft to support and stabilize the to top? (no movement!) Yet the top of this rest is free to slide to the right.........and yes, when the rifle is fired? To me it kind of defeats the purpose of a good rigid front rest? Yes, the top moves nicely but at the cost of rifle movement during recoil. Everything on my Old Bald Eagle rest with manual windage top is made to be tight with NO movement. I believe having this top being able to move could cause "flyers!" Bill shoots well and posts some good groups but invariably get a flyer to spoil his group. Not saying I don't get flyers but I try to minimize anything that can cause them. Richard
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jon
New Member
Posts: 43
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Post by jon on Sept 9, 2015 6:01:21 GMT -5
Thank you for the pictures. Nicely done. I haven't even got mine out of the box yet. This is the perfect time to look it over. I think I like your style with the knob replacing the cable. Not quite as handy but more positive.
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Post by markb317 on Sept 9, 2015 22:25:38 GMT -5
I have the Bald Eagle rest and I took one of the springs out that holds the windage top and sprayed some silicone on the slip and it moves a lot easier. They are very good rest, also Grizzly has the radius bags in stock.
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Post by rojo23 on Sept 10, 2015 6:21:37 GMT -5
thanks Richard.
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Post by Richard on Sept 10, 2015 8:48:14 GMT -5
If you look in the first picture you will see the thin washer directly behind the black knob? Bill put that on but failed to secure it to the existing piece the handle goes thru. There is a lot of wobble in that handle which transmits to the cable and the excessive play. My thought (just my opinion) is that the washer should be made another 1/4" thicker (should come out to the end of that piece in front of the washer). The hole should be jjjjjjjjjuuuuuuussssssssssst big enough for the handle to fit thru with maybe .001 clearance. Then the new fat piece should either be epoxied in place or, with small screws, driled and taped into the existing piece. That would keep that handle from twisting about.
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