|
|
Post by linebaugh on May 15, 2016 14:12:56 GMT -5
I finally had my barrel blank delivered and would like some advice on the best way to time a tactical brake.
Since this is brand new construction I have the option to time off the muzzle, breech or even both. My thoughts are to cut the threads and shoulders in on both ends just to see how lucky or lack there of I can get. This brake is only able to be fitted in one position due to configuration so regardless it will need timed.
The action threads are much slower than the brake threads so I am thinking that the muzzle would be the place to do all the timing.
What are the thoughts on this?
|
|
|
|
Post by linebaugh on May 15, 2016 14:14:29 GMT -5
I said that backwards the action threads are much faster and brake slower.
|
|
|
|
Post by Hank on May 15, 2016 19:11:29 GMT -5
Tim.
I will tell you no one hates installing a tactical style brake more than I do and I have been doing them for years. If you install the brake and get it perfectly timed with a lets say a good hand tight fit and some one else comes along and torques it on with a screw drive through the ports then the timing will be way off. So when installing it make sure you get it in time with a good grip and try to always re-install it with the same grip, on to how I do it.
You must install your barrel and set your headspace first. With your barreled action tight and recoil lug in place set it on a flat surface. I use a granite surface plate but a table with a piece of glass would also work. The recoil lug should be flat across the bottom therefor putting the center of your barrel at top dead center. You need to measure the diameter of the barrel .550 back from where you plan on cutting and crowning it. Divide this number in half. Lets say your barrel was .840 divided by 2 = .420. Next you will need a square block, I use a small V block that measures 1.680 across. Now set the block next to the barrel and set your calipers to scribe a line on top of the barrel at top dead center. Your caliper would be set at 2.100 if you were using my V block and the barrel was indeed .840.. Now you need to mark your brake the same way. Top dead center. Make a small scratch. Now when you machine the barrel to except the brake you will cut the tenon however long the brake requires. I use .550 in length and thread it until you get a good smooth fit. Screw the brake on all the way and see where your scribe lines line up. You can do the math as to what thread pitch you have as to how many thousandth you need to remove but be careful. If your calculations tell you that you need to remove .012 cut that in half and re-fit. Re-peat and try again.. It really is a trial and error until you it fits to your satisfaction. Remember with the brake you have if you go past your 12:00 position you will need to do a complete revolution in order to get back to the 12:00 position. You can do this once, if you miss your mark twice you will probably have to set up on your threads again and thread farther back. Keep in mind if your barrel is fluted that your flutes should stop about two inches from the muzzle. If you have to set it back several times or cut off the tenon and start over you might get close to or even run into the flutes on the barrel... My advice to you would be to set up a mock barrel in the lathe and time your brake to it, this will give you a good feel as to what to expect when doing it on your real barrel and how to fix anything that might go wrong......
Hope this helps...
|
|
|
|
Post by Richard on May 15, 2016 19:42:08 GMT -5
I am with Jeff...........Its a PIA. If its your rifle and it is just a "tad" past TDC, a wrap of teflon tape could put you on........if you are not "fussy!" I will almost always try to talk people out of them. Most gunsmiths I have talked with are of the same opinion that these tactical brakes do no more to reduce recoil as a radial brake. I think there is a "cool" factor that enters into the tactical thing??? Unless you are planning on doing a lot of prone shooting from a very dusty/sandy surface? I see no advantage. I shot an antelope off a 6" bipod with my 7/08 XP-100 with a radial brake and the only thing I can remember is the guide screaming about the noise (he was bending down and close to the muzzle with my range finder - I put plugs in when we first spotted the goat) and telling me the goat was done! Dust never entered the picture? If it was there, I never remembered it?
But hey, that was just my experience, everyone has their own agenda!
|
|
|
|
Post by linebaugh on May 19, 2016 14:42:14 GMT -5
I see why people hate tactical brakes. I spent about 5 hours cutting, crowning, threading and timing my brake today only to have the brake be a fuzz over on timing.
The first time I used the lathe to set the muzzle shoulder back and I was over about 10 degrees. The second time I was about 10 degrees under time and I used 400grit sand paper on the brake shoulder to correct timing. Overshot it by about 3-4 degrees.
The second time I could literally feel the heat moving from my stomach up through the top of my head. Straight up cartoon style but in real life. Unhappy camper.
At any rate I will time this thing with a washer made of silver solder. I believe I am off by less than .001 at this point and I can "squish" the washer to achieve perfect alignment. If this does not work I will buy a rotary index table for my mill and make a radial brake to replace it at some point. Of course if it works that may not be needed.
At any rate my barreled action is together and I will be bead blasting next week sometime. I appreciate the answers and I can positively say this will be the last tactical style brake I ever try to fit.
|
|
