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Post by linebaugh on May 5, 2016 9:02:53 GMT -5
I have hardly ever shot a braked gun in my life but due to the recoil I anticipate on my current build I did build a tactical style two chamber brake for it.
I "think" there will be benefit from using wads on my way to my intended goal but I am a bit fearful that they may damage my brake. What is the general consensus on this?
If I remember correct sombody on here had a brake damaged at ont of the kentucky challenges? Don't remember exactly why but I think it was due to baffle thickness.... but was that because of wads also?
Any info would be appreciated.
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Post by Richard on May 5, 2016 10:33:08 GMT -5
It was definitely not at either of the last two? (Did not attend 1 & 2) I would think that the wad would follow the base of the bullet until it left the brake? (thinking out loud) I only use radial type brakes so no first hand experience. Don't know of a good reason for the tactical brake on a standard hunting or bench rifle. If shooting prone in a sandy or desert type environment then I could see it?
Also, the fact that the bullet is ahead of the wad its not like it could get "trapped" between the nose of the bullet and one of the vents on the brake? Just my thoughts? I have shot sabots thru a radial brake on one of my ML'ers in the past with no ill effects other than decreased accuracy----------as compared to when the brake was removed?
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Post by bestill458 on May 5, 2016 10:41:15 GMT -5
I have hardly ever shot a braked gun in my life but due to the recoil I anticipate on my current build I did build a tactical style two chamber brake for it. I "think" there will be benefit from using wads on my way to my intended goal but I am a bit fearful that they may damage my brake. What is the general consensus on this? If I remember correct sombody on here had a brake damaged at ont of the kentucky challenges? Don't remember exactly why but I think it was due to baffle thickness.... but was that because of wads also? Any info would be appreciated. I believe it was deadeye and using very slow powder and heavy bullet was put alot of pressure on muzzle and break. |
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Post by hillbill on May 5, 2016 11:44:15 GMT -5
As bestill said, it had nothing to do with the wad itself, I shoot brakes with wads and they have never posed a problem, you should be good to go...
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Post by Kyle on May 5, 2016 11:49:43 GMT -5
Slow powder like I 4831 has its place or it would have not been made and continues to be made. That said I think more of the powder is burning closer to the end of the barrel. Heavier bullets may contain the burn further back in the barrel. Maybe unburned powder is blasting the metal or maybe too much heat?
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Post by linebaugh on May 5, 2016 13:34:48 GMT -5
[/quote]
I believe it was deadeye and using very slow powder and heavy bullet was put alot of pressure on muzzle and break.[/quote]
I sure hope you are wrong on that. I am doing exactly what you suggest may be the problem.
I will have a 29.5" bbl so perhaps that will help with getting powder burnt and lowering the pressure a bit. I built my brake with .150 baffles so I hope it's overkill as well.
Richard,
Normally I would agree with you and I don't like brakes of any configuration but this build will have so much recoil I have no choice. I am actually trying to build heavy and added a brake for that sole purpose.
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Post by 12ptdroptine on May 5, 2016 13:39:26 GMT -5
IIRC it was at the spring shoot last year DeadEye had a brake warp usig a slow burning powder and lots of it pushing a big bullet.
Drop
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Post by deadeye on May 5, 2016 16:12:05 GMT -5
The brake did not warp as initially thought. It was sandblasted by large dose of unburnt 4831. Did it twice. The damaged brake was re drilled by jeff hankins & works great still today. Absolutely no problem with veggie or wool wads. Returned to 4198 with the 325 bullet
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Post by jims on May 5, 2016 18:56:59 GMT -5
Good information to know.
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Post by elkman1310 on May 6, 2016 10:26:53 GMT -5
I use muzzle brakes on all my M/L builds and on almost all my long range CF competition rifles. I have made a lot of brakes out of 6016 and 7075 Aluminum and the majority out of 416 S/S I do not use any tank style brakes. I like a simple 4 holes per row or 24 total for the brakes I make. The holes or ports are all .250 I have tried bigger and smaller. .250 is a good compromise.
The Tank style brakes would probably make loading the wad a little harder but since I don't use or like the looks of that style I can't say for sure. I like to see muzzle brakes than are blended into the barrel to the point you can't tell that it a screw on brake it just looks more professional. I have also found accuracy to improve when using a brake party because of the recoil reduction . Less recoil should always translate into better groups. Also as the bullet exits the muzzle of the barrel into the brake the gases are blown out the port holes of the brake and are not directly acting on the base of the bullet. There are many styles of brakes all claiming to do something special. A simple radial design with large enough holes to get the gas out quickly still works the best. And you really don't need the ports angles rearward to make it work . also don't over bore the hole in the brake .030 larger than caliber size is normal. I make my 45Cal brakes with a .480 hole so the wool wad sits nicely on the top of the brake and the powder funnel fits inside the brake and down the barrel about 1/2 inch. The funnel is used to pour the powder then used to push the wad down into the barrel then start the bullet into the barrel. You will need some type of funnel for a tank brake.
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Post by jims on May 6, 2016 15:36:00 GMT -5
I guess it is a Ford/Chevy thing. I am not a big brake fan but on those I do have I am in elkman's camp. I like them to look like they are just part of the barrel. I do have some barrels Magna Ported. Not really sure that it helps much.
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