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Post by cshields on Jul 24, 2020 21:26:18 GMT -5
Is one brake better than the other for reducing recoil? Thanks in advance for the advice.
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Post by shindig on Jul 25, 2020 8:16:47 GMT -5
I would check out Jeff’s master blaster muzzle break, they are really remarkable
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Post by Richard on Jul 25, 2020 8:50:17 GMT -5
I have used several of them over the years and keep going back to the standard "radial" brake. Some of the tactical and "clam shell" type brakes may have a slight recoil reduction advantage but they are also way more noisy..........and piss off nearby shooters. They don't allow them at IBS matches for just that reason. We have had to install barriers at the Kentucky Challenge to protect adjacent shooters. The pressure that comes off them can easily move your neighbors rifle from its POA/POI. Yes, they do look "cool" but actual ft/lbs of reduced recoil is probably not that significant! You are better off adding a little weight to your rifle. On my latest "Black Corona" build, I switched back from the tactical to the radial brake! Just my humble opinion!
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Post by hillbill on Jul 25, 2020 11:48:18 GMT -5
There is a good bit of difference in brakes, I have used a lot of different brakes, radial, side port,gill brakes etc. some say there is not much difference in brakes? I would have to disagree. The big side port gill brakes with these guns and big loads definitely work better. 4 port are less effective than 5 port BUT one must weigh the weight/length vs recoil reduction and decide IF you need the big 5 port brake for the load you are shooting, for most a 4 port like Jeff's Master Blaster works very well. I just shot 10 shots out of a new gun this morning with that brake with 300s @2935 avg for 10 shots and recoil was mild, the gun weighs 11.4 lbs without scope so that gives you an idea of what I'm running. the rearward discharge from a gill brake does make a difference, it pushes the gun forward as gas is discharged BUT you have to deal with the gas blowing stuff off of the bench and blowing gas back on your partner. with these big gun charges I have been shooting of late in the .40 different brakes DO make a big difference, Ask Mr. Blankenship, he has also been burning some big charges in his .40 and experimenting with brakes. For normal hunting loads you might not see a big difference. Like Richard said, gun weight is the big factor, an extra lb or two makes a huge difference in felt recoil.
Takes a bigger push to move a fat kid than it does a skinny kid.
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Post by ultimtepredator on Jul 25, 2020 16:39:12 GMT -5
I totally have to agree with bill and Richard, I have been shooting some 130 plus grain loads with 325’s & 350’s . Absolutely safe in my gun gut maybe not yours 1.350 for I believe 7 inches so do not try in your rifle.. it has a five port large gill type brake and not much more recoil then a .243 or small caliber rig .. I also have master blaster on a rig Jeff built that is a very very effective design.. I have also a. .45 caliber large shank that had a I believe was a Harrols brake and a light rifle at around 13.5-14 lbs with scope that usually left me bleeding at most a the challenges .. very stout recoil... I have a guy from Texas send a couple 5 port brakes to test on these rifles and between the 5 port brake and a MPA chassis added with a weight kit it’s now the big boy Bill spoke of ...very much changed the recoil of this rifle from a 3-4 inch jump straight up (skinny boy )to shooting almost completely free recoil moving very little straight back (big boy) Very pleasant to shoot with large doses of powder..
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Post by elkman1310 on Jul 25, 2020 21:48:03 GMT -5
I have made many different types of radial design brakes and they all seem to work about the same. Since we are not allowed to have any brake that discharges to the rear on our bench guns the big clam shell brakes are out. Personally they look out of place on a rifle I like the muzzle brake to look like its part of the barrel not a after thought. But other people like the looks of a big brake hanging on the end of the barrels that fine to.
I have tried different size holes and spacing and ran clearance as close as .010 and up to .040 and saw to real difference. I have tried brakes that have 3 chambers and 4 chamber and some with a big hole except for the muzzle end for what ever caliber your using and they really don't make much of a difference. I base a lot of my experience with brakes on how it effects the tracking on my 1,000 yard bench rest rifles on a 300 WSM shooting a 210gr bullet 2900fps a good brake will tame the recoil down that the gun should track straight and stay on the target hopefully within the blue center or 12 inches and 6mm Dasher will only move about 4 to 5 inches but that is a much lighter recoiling rifle. On my muzzleloaders I use a radial design with .250 holes 4 per row and they are bored to .480 which is also the perfect size for the heavy wool wads I use.
I do think any brake is better than no brake on a high performance muzzleloader it really tames the gun down and makes it much more fun to shoot.
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Post by deadeye on Jul 26, 2020 8:06:08 GMT -5
after years of shooting many brakes from 50bmg to 300rum to high performance mz-i agree w/ bill & steve along with other good comments.
in mz i have switched out the radial & fishgill-the fishgill does a better job-my shoulder tells me.
My preference- a 5 port gill type w/ top hole on the end especially on a light barrels such as a 300rum-helps keep muzzle jump down.
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