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Post by hillbill on May 14, 2017 7:51:24 GMT -5
If it's a CF action just press putty into the edges all the way around the cutout so the epoxy will not stick inside the action, next time I bed one for myself I will add some pics. epoxy will only need to be put in around the sides where it contacts so there will not be a lot of excess in that area.
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Post by smokelessk on May 17, 2017 5:44:13 GMT -5
Question for you on a different action. I'm doing a bedding job on a M77 Hawkeye. Any tricks to deal with the Ruger style recoil lug and this particular action? Thank you. Kenny
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Post by hillbill on Jun 10, 2017 10:45:29 GMT -5
never dealt with one??
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Post by hillbill on Jun 11, 2017 6:21:35 GMT -5
take some pics and post them and I can go from there.
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Post by dennis on Jul 19, 2017 8:00:39 GMT -5
take some pics and post them and I can go from there. Wish that photo-bucket hadn't deleted your stock bedding photos, I have reviewed them several times and am preparing a stock for my ml2 whenever I get the barreled action back from Jeff. I know there are a lot of you-tube videos out there but being able to see step by step pictures is a lot easier for me. You go the extra mile in prepping your stocks and I liked that. because it saves a lot of extra cleanup and headaches. Would like to see something like this again. I have a lot of it in my memory but I'm sure not all of it. Appreciate the work it took to post all the pictures that were lost.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 19, 2017 8:35:16 GMT -5
HillBill knows his stuff and he does have a great write up. I also use this YouTube video for help as well.
It's hard to find a Savage video. However talk to HillBill and I'm betting he'll walk you through the process. Good luck
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Post by hillbill on Jul 20, 2017 3:37:25 GMT -5
I have probably bedded 25 ML IIs, they are a little different but I can talk you through it if you want to call me.
Some day I will redo the tutorial
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Post by dennis on Jul 20, 2017 6:10:04 GMT -5
I have probably bedded 25 ML IIs, they are a little different but I can talk you through it if you want to call me. Some day I will redo the tutorial I will get with you when I get the barreled action back from Jeff. Thanks Bill.
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Post by jimmykip on Mar 21, 2018 14:35:24 GMT -5
So, the recoil lug cutout gets stuffed with compound?
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Post by hillbill on Mar 21, 2018 16:38:14 GMT -5
PM sent
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Post by joelmoney on Oct 6, 2018 22:24:11 GMT -5
I am using adjustable pillars would you fill them with bedding compound? I am thinking not but wanted to be sure.
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Post by hillbill on Oct 7, 2018 12:28:55 GMT -5
get them adjusted to the right height and roll them in the bedding compound before putting them in the stock holes or if you are mounting them to the action first use a Popsicle stick or similar to get them coated, same for the holes in the stock.
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Post by joelmoney on Oct 11, 2018 23:48:21 GMT -5
When using heat to soften Devcon don’t use hi on the heat gun! It will harden thin spots very quick. 😬 now you know. I also found out the action screws very likely may not be straight.
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Post by jimmykip on Mar 3, 2019 10:46:52 GMT -5
Nice job. When you grind out the tang area, do you leave any of the area unground so the original action height is maintained? Jimmy
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Post by hillbill on Mar 3, 2019 13:26:02 GMT -5
Normally I bed pillars in a 2 step process, I drill the stock and prep for the pillars allowing some space around the pillars, it makes it easier to get the epoxy in and allows room for the pillars to align
I leave the wood/fill untouched until the pillars dry before I remove the action area, normally I will dremel/machine out around the pillars pretty deep so they are well supported with the action bedding.
Remember to wax the action around the screws as well as the trigger guard where it mates against the pillars so it will release freely.
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Post by hillbill on Mar 3, 2019 13:31:02 GMT -5
I use high on my hair dryer BUT I always mix thoroughly before applying, I just heat it to make it easier to mix and apply.
Hot epoxy will set up much faster, remember that, don't get it hot, just warm enough to thin it out some. If you need something to set fast heat the item you are bedding and the epoxy, it will set in a hurry.
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Post by joelmoney on Mar 3, 2019 18:11:06 GMT -5
Using a heat gun on high it sets up way too fast to work with. Just a word of caution. I made a mistake and am hoping others don’t make the same mistake. I thank you Bill for the work you put into this tutorial without it I would not have been able to bed the two kids I did last fall.
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Post by hillbill on Mar 3, 2019 20:20:30 GMT -5
A true heat gun gets really hot, I use a hair dryer, one of my wife's discards, it works good for what I need it for. Bedding is a very common sense endeavor, just remember to wax whatever you don't want stuck and take your time, the rest is practice. after about 2 gallons of bedding compound and 150 guns you will get good at it.
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Post by Sideshow on Jul 28, 2021 9:38:02 GMT -5
Beautiful craftmanship hillbill !!! I will put Much of what you shown here into use . The extra taping ideas definately were the necessity for the mother of invention . Youve thought pretty hard about your process . Well done and with style !!! I just picked up a carbon fiber ultralite sheep rifle stock of 20oz and will be doing it . A Unbelieveable deal !!! But it has come with a hitch , its long action Adl . I have a Sa . Ive ordered a adjustable pillar set to move the front screw from 7 3/8 to 6 1/2 into the mag well which will be filled . Carbon fiber arrow shafts sealed hollow and epoxy taking up the majority of space is the plan for a eventual full length bed . I have a brass bushing for the front triggerguard screw . 3 or 4 steps im sure in all . A little coaxing will have the #6 Brux into the magnum barrel channel just barely !!! It would be pretty well impossible without the space increase of nearly an inch for the 1.250 shank and the taper moved rearward in a thin forend . I can see no other way to use a full shank barrel in a truly ultra-light weight stock with slim contours than what im up to short of custom made . The lug falls into the old front screw location and will be bedded and filled appropriately . A piece of tape on the outside with epoxy will deal with the hole smoothing it . I could never afford this stock any other way than it happened to come along right now and without this bright(?) idea to do this . It retailed for more than my target action and barrel together and is brand new !!! Should i trust the adhesion of JB Weld 24hr epoxy or Devcon to bond to this mag well to secure the pillar ?? Carbon fiber specific adhesives are tremendously expensive . This IS a bit more involved than a bed job . I plan to have the bottom adjuster on the "Inside" of the mag well . Only a hole for the screw access will be there . Ive considered a crossbolt behind the pillar as well and one to the rear of the mag well too for insurance - just because !!! Any insight would be appreciated . Thanks in advance . It also has a rubber butt plate , no pad . Ive no idea what i will find in there when its cut for a kick-eez with LOP adjusted . Ive never worked with carbon fiber stock or any quite like this . Have you found yourself in these shoes before ?? Thank you again for any insights . This will be for a 40 , primarily using a max loading of 275gr bullets around 2900 or so . No more bullet or velocity than that !!! I truly expect 240 or 250gr to be plenty and used most at similar velocity . I addressed hillbill but if anyone has something to add feel free to do so . Helpfull opinions are welcome .
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Post by hillbill on Jul 30, 2021 7:34:09 GMT -5
Have never used a LA stock for a SA? Carbon fiber don't care which epoxy you use, only the shell is carbon fiber anyway, the rest is fill and thats mainly what is bonded to. JB will be fine, Devcon is fine, Marinetex is fine, rough up bonding surface and vac all the dust out before appyling.
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