Post by hillbill on Oct 2, 2015 20:59:20 GMT -5
OK, I will try to remember all this so bear with me as it will take a while
as I stated before Im no professional but I have done a bunch of stocks, Im very picky about finish work, be it a gun or an oak stair case so bear that in mind. you can bed a stock much easier if looks are no big deal so take this for what its worth. bedding is not voodoo or rocket science and if I can do it so can any of you.
that's the reason for this post, to encourage anyone that wants to try it to give it a go.
guys that bed a lot will likely think Im crazy for some of the stuff I do but it works for me and Im the one I have to please so again, take it for what its worth...
this is a B&C stock with bedding block, a used one at that, noting special but it works well, this is before I tape it off
I tape down the edge as closely as I can but I clean edges with alcohol and let it dry before taping. also note I use 3M painters tape, the cheap stuff is a waste of time.
this is after taping and trimming is done, I trim inside edges with a very sharp razor knife IF they hang over on the inside.
I place the barreled action in the stock with the action screws lined up and trace the barrel on the barrel channel with a very sharp pencil
as you can see in this picture the lines are clearly visible along with the dremel and the 120 grit flapper wheel that I use to cut barrel channels with, sometimes depending on barrel contour there is a lot of channel material to remove. I always use the shop vac to collect the dust as I cut. extreme care must be taken when using a dremel, a big ugly spot can appear in a hurry..
this is after the initial cut was made to the lines, I try to get the barreled action to set in so it will line up with the action screws and check for clearance, more sanding is done until I have a generous barrel float, usually .060 or so
after Im satisfied with fit I bolt the action in and trace around the tang with the sharp pencil so I will have a defined line to cut to and then I cut more material away.
I also measure where to stop the bedding while its in the action, some float the barrel from the lug forward, some don't? in this case its 2"
the cut line you see in front of the lug area gets a piece of 2" wide electrical tape to keep the epoxy from sticking to the stock from that point forward
the barrel has a piece of tape in the same line, once the bedding dries you cut the top line and pop the bottom out making a straight cut line across the stock.
I forgot to take a pic of the tape
this is what I use for putty, its cheap and works well, it doesn't dry out either,
trigger recess is filled
this stock happens to be BDL and I make a storage compartment under the action and bed the action solid so it gets filled with a foam block, on ADL blind mag stocks I fill mag well with foam and allow 3/16" or so depth for bedding, I also use a cut off straw for the front trigger guard screw to keep the bedding off of it, it will get drilled out after drying (all the screw holes do for clearance.
next the little cracks get filled before putting in my secret glass top for the mag well
this piece of plastic from a ring packing box sits between the foam and bedding and when it gets peeled out it leaves a glass smooth roof for the storage compartment.
this is the plastic after it is cut to size
next is prepping the barreled action for bedding, lots of guys use different release agent and I have tried different things but have settled on this ,it works.
I mark the barrel for a piece of 2"wide electrical tape for a bedding stop and install the tape and putty the action before applying the Kiwi
I also apply tape to the front, sides and bottom of the recoil lug after I buff the Kiwi and before bedding
a pic of the barreled action all puttied up with tape applied and Kiwi buffed off
these are the action screws with Teflon applied so the epoxy won't stick
I had previously marked the barrel where the tape was going to center the barrel in the channel, wrap it till it is snug on both sides and the action is level with the pillars , the number of wraps varies in each situation
next I get the action where it is going to live and install the rear screw, I then tape the action/barrel shank. while this is not necessary it actually saves a lot of clean up time in the end. I leave the tape slightly high above the stock line ESPECIALLY on the shank, about 1/8" on the shank, I will explain why later.
make sure when you take it out of the stock to rub the tape edges down well so the epoxy doesn't get underneath.
check to make sure you didn't scuff the barreled action taking it in and out of the stock, if so touch up the Kiwi or the epoxy will stick in those areas.
now its mixing time and this is what I use for a cup, you can buy mixing cups but this is what I had at the moment
I cut it down with a razor knife
its time for some epoxy, in this case its Marinetex. its very good but so is Devcon , Devcon seems to shrink less but is more prone to air voids, Marinetex is a little more snotty but both are very good. mix according to directions and a blow dryer will get it warm and make either flow better, especially Devcon.
this is the gallon size but it can be had in much smaller sizes..
a side note, make sure you mix enough to start, if in doubt make too much.
after its mixed well and warmed up spoon it into the lowest recesses of the stock first and build it up taking care not to make air pockets
lower the action into the stock using the stud as a guide and snug up the rear action screw, lots of goop will flow out
a paddle stick can be used to clean off the big stuff, make sure the barrel is pushed down in the channel where it needs to be, electrical tape can be wrapped around the barrel/stock to hold it down where it needs to be
after the big stuff gets spooned off
the tape comes off the top side first and then off the stock, the excess epoxy comes off with it, a line of raise bedding will remain, it needs to stay until drying.
place a razor knife in front of the lug and tape the tape off to that front edge, the rest stays
after drying 8 hours its time to remove the foam block and plastic spacer
clean the ooze off the top of the plastic with a sharp chisel etc.
get under the edge and peel it out
the finished product
after its popped out of the stock
the razor knife is used to cut the line where the tape intersects and then lift it out
next the pillar holes get drilled out, use the largest bit that will fit in the bottom side of the pillar and drill the top first, if you come in from the bottom you will chip the top when it passes through
after drilling is done, the tape will have to be fished out of the lug recess but comes out very easily
next retape the action portion of the stock, take care the epoxy is very sharp, the dremel with a sanding drum comes into play here. go very lightly and stop when you sand through the edge of the tape
now you see why the bedding is left high, otherwise you wind up with a trough like you see in front of the lug, I had to fix it..
a carbide burr is used to cut the epoxy from the trigger recess area, the pic is bad but you get the idea
its paint time, this area gets taped off and trimmed and then spray painted flat black
the action area get masked as well and gets sprayed flat black as well
after paint is done and tape is off
some of my pictures got lost on photobucket but you get the idea. I did a LOT of stuff most will not or don't need to do and every gun is different. pillaring a boyds and bedding it is a little different than this was, a savage action is different still.
1. Dremel 4000 a must for the number of stocks I do
2. shop vac with dust bag inserted inside..... I never do one without it
3.120 grit flapper wheel for dremel/ carbide burr/ high speed steel cutter shaped like an endmill/ sanding drum
4. 3M painters tape
5. electrical tape
6. mineral spirits or alcohol for removing wet epoxy
7. cotton swabs
8. sandpaper 100/220 and deep well sockets for finish sanding of the barrel channel
9. MOST IMPORTANT; a good dose of patience
I will leave it up to Jeff to make this into a sticky if he wants and put it in a how to section or something...Bill