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Post by elkman1310 on Feb 22, 2017 10:23:10 GMT -5
Here is a new build using a Brux barrel and a nice looking Boyd's Pro Varmint stock with all the bells and whistles. I used the Brux because the customer wants to have the gun Cerokoted and in the past I had two Shilen barrels coated I didn't think they shot as well as they did prior to having them coated. Button rifle barrels can be touchy a lot of people say you should not even turn down a button rifle barrel I profile all the barrels I get and have never had any negative effects I also go slow and never heat them up and I support them in a different way. But after turning and machining and shooting the gun sending it out to have a baked on finish at 300deg for a hour or two can have a negative effect on any button rifle barrel so that is why I went with the Brux cut rifled barrel
The Brux heavy varmint barrel with a 1.250 shank was way to heavy for the guns I build I will not buy another one just to get a 1.250 shank that barrel weighed 6.8lbs I turned off almost 2lbs. I checked the bore for any tight spots the muzzle was slightly looser than the breech but good enough for a muzzleloader. The barrel was stamped .458 x.450 boy that was way off this is the tightest .458 barrel I have had. there seems to be a wide range of bore sizes when it comes to a .458 barrel .I have had barrels that took a .4506 bullet all the way down to a .4495 which this Brux barrel took that is a wide spread and from what I have read about Pacnor they are really big. All Shilen barrels I have used have all been within .0003 most come through taking a .4490 bullet requardless of what bullet they need to fit properly they all have shot really well. So what ever barrel you decide to go with check it out first size a bullet correctly and push it down the barrel a few times to see if you feel any loose or tight spots if you do send it back. You can live with the breech end being a hair looser because the powder fouling will tighten that area up but not a lot
So If you do all your machine work correctly and have a good breech plug design and do a good bedding job which is critical on these guns and use good rings and bases you should end up with a gun that will shoot under .5moa at 100 yards right from the start. Ever gun I have built requardless of barrel make has shot under .5moa with straight powder charges of 73grs ofIMR 4198 and a 300gr Hornady ST or FTX bullet
Here is a picture of the gun and first target a total of 5 shots went through this new barrel two to get it close to the bullseye and three for a group and these bullets had been sized up and down by knurling they didn't fit exactly they way I like them to but they were close enough for the first test. I do believe the gun will shoot smaller. The picture shows the breech plug laying in the action I took it out to bore sight the gun and I used by test scope from Test gun with the Douglas barrel since the customer has not decided what scope he wants to use yet. This is a old Tasco sniper scope they had made to mil specs for the Gov. they are bullet proof on these muzzleloaders.
I made the pictures to big from my phone camera so I took these off the computer screen
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Post by Deleted on Feb 22, 2017 10:33:11 GMT -5
Looks good!
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Post by Deleted on Feb 22, 2017 11:01:01 GMT -5
Good lookin' gun. Wonder why Brux barrels are more expensive that shilen's??
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Post by doug136 on Feb 22, 2017 12:48:13 GMT -5
Elkman the tape on the side of the stock is marked to make sure the stock sits in the same position correct ? Is there a reason you do not use the stock (stopper thing lol ) on the front of the rest ? Nice gun and shooting by the way .
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Post by elkman1310 on Feb 22, 2017 14:15:30 GMT -5
Doug there is no tape on the stock. The Brux and Shilen would be about the same price if you bought a Shilen select match their about $325.00 I don't use those just the match grade barrel the select match is lapped more but that is not needed for a muzzleloader. I have not found a perfect barrel contour from any barrel maker yet that fills my needs. Shilen will not doing anything extra or different then what they supply.
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Post by doug136 on Feb 22, 2017 15:06:48 GMT -5
Wow it looks like there is something on the side of the stock . My bad
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Post by jimbob on Feb 22, 2017 16:35:28 GMT -5
Doug it's checkering on the stock I have one just like it
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Post by doug136 on Feb 22, 2017 17:05:57 GMT -5
Ohhhhh lol I see now
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Post by elkman1310 on Feb 22, 2017 18:34:14 GMT -5
That is Boyd's laser stripling it helps dress up the stock. I personally would have no need for the adjustable check piece but the customer wanted it. I hope to get out and do a few more tests with it before it gets coated. The color is still not decided what do you think would good with this gun stock. I just like plain old S/S but other people like other things so what color would you make the barreled action?
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Post by Deleted on Feb 22, 2017 18:40:06 GMT -5
I like black action and barrels myself. I don't care much for odd color stuff so either stainless or black.
Great shooting!! Looks like a great rifle.
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Post by doug136 on Feb 22, 2017 19:23:19 GMT -5
I will NEVER cover stainless . But thats me
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Post by Richard on Feb 22, 2017 21:20:10 GMT -5
What ever you coat on it will eventually get scratched! I just cannot see coating these or any guns? Bead blast them if you don't want a shiny surface!
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Post by schunter on Feb 22, 2017 21:32:36 GMT -5
I like my gun coated in black ice but also like my bead blasted SS one too...
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Post by 12ptdroptine on Feb 22, 2017 21:43:13 GMT -5
I have been involved in paint for 40years. Specialized in hard to paint surfaces like galvanized, aluminum, SS, etc. and anything that is applied to the surface is vulnerable to scratches and show wear. . drop
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Post by Deleted on Feb 22, 2017 22:11:53 GMT -5
I have been involved in paint for 40years. Specialized in hard to paint surfaces like galvanized, aluminum, SS, etc. and anything that is applied to the surface is vulnerable to scratches and show wear. . drop What about melonite?
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Post by 12ptdroptine on Feb 22, 2017 22:17:56 GMT -5
Melonite is a subsurface adhesion. It has a molecular composition that for a lack of better word "melts" into the surface . IF I understand it correctly drop
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Post by Deleted on Feb 22, 2017 22:26:58 GMT -5
Melonite is a subsurface adhesion. It has a molecular composition that for a lack of better word "melts" into the surface . IF I understand it correctly drop Russ, this is what we talked about: www.burlingtoneng.com/melonite.html
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Post by Richard on Feb 22, 2017 22:30:50 GMT -5
So it is completely different from spraying a paint on the surface and expecting it to last or not scratch! We were talking about "coatings!" Not converting the metal surface itself!
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Post by Deleted on Feb 22, 2017 22:34:01 GMT -5
Tomayto or Tomahto....it's all good....
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Post by elkman1310 on Feb 22, 2017 22:41:42 GMT -5
I like to keep it simple and stay with S/S bead blasting also looks nice. Coating even baked on will wear and scratch off it you work at it then you have shinny metal. But it all comes down to want the customer wants it is his gun not mine. Thanks for the input on the colors
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