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Post by hillbill on Jan 20, 2020 11:06:56 GMT -5
I've been talking about my light weight .40 build, he are all the parts |
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Post by deathray on Jan 20, 2020 11:48:01 GMT -5
Color me green with envy! Looks like the fun can begin . I want a .40 sooo bad !
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Post by schunter on Jan 20, 2020 11:53:54 GMT -5
Nice looking pile. It would be even lighter if you only use 1 bolt..... lol
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Post by hillbill on Jan 20, 2020 13:07:26 GMT -5
not sure which one I will use? SS action that has a crappy cerakote job, started life as a .223 so enough meat to flycut, base holes opened to 8-40s, action face squared and threads trued the factory bolt has been fly cut for Mag AB modules but might use the other since it has already been fluted? 15 twist Rock Creek 1.200-5" straight-.800 @ 28" 8 flute, will be cut to 24" Jeff's 9/16 x 24 plug Trigger Tech Diamond Greytan single shot follower
Aluminum bolt shroud Greytan .060 firing pin with bushed bolt, guess I will use that one, will have to have it fluted and threaded for knob. Jeff's brake and his new 7075 20 MOA base Jeff's .187 machined lug pinned to action
Mesa Precision Alpine stock @ 29 ozs all metal will be cerakoted black
was hoping for 8 Lbs BUT after weighing parts it will be heavier, 8.5-8.75 likely hope to shoot the 278 Accumax around 2800 accurately
I plan to do a .45 barrel in the same profile to fit this gun in case I hunt Illinois soon.
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Post by Richard on Jan 20, 2020 13:56:51 GMT -5
Definitely a nice pile Bill!
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Post by Hank on Jan 20, 2020 19:55:24 GMT -5
Looks like you got some high quality parts there......
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Post by BCraft on Feb 7, 2020 16:50:03 GMT -5
It looks like an updated version or the Tote-Em-Pole! Great Looking gun Bill!!
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Post by olegburn on Feb 8, 2020 22:23:59 GMT -5
Possibly dumb question: Is there a point in the barrel where it can be safely turned/machined thinner without sacrificing strength?
Is it a correct assumption that the highest pressure rise takes place in the first few inches in the barrel?
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Post by hillbill on Feb 9, 2020 7:47:48 GMT -5
Every barrel I have seen bulged has been in the first 8" and most of those being from a double load.
How thin can you go past that point? That's a good question to which there is no definitive answer, I knew a guy that did a build on a #5 profile in .45 caliber but accuracy was not that great, was it too thin? Possibly?
IMO a #6 profile with a substantial shank is as slender as we can safely go, other opinions will vary I'm sure.
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Post by jims on Feb 9, 2020 9:46:27 GMT -5
ULAs have pretty thin barrels but it is a .50 and it is a different creature than what many are building here.
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Post by Richard on Feb 9, 2020 10:58:51 GMT -5
All three barrels I have bulged took place right where the powder column ended and bullet was seated. Five inches of thick barrel will keep you in that area. All three of my barrels were able to be saved by cutting off three inches of the breech end and retheading. The bulge's were about .024" total increase in a 1/2" area. While the bulge was still there, it was now right where recoil lug is..........and not in a position of stress. They all shot just fine. Depending on whether you double loaded JUST another bullet or if you put in an additional charge and a bullet could determine whether you get a bulge or a burst. While the second charge probably will not ignite, it does add that much more weight. My new barrel will have 6" at 1.300" and then a straight taper to 1". So that gives me a lot of thick barrel even beyond the 6". I am not advocating that anyone should do what I did? That is a personal decision. But, all three barrels were shot again WITH the bulge still in so I know they were safe. The main problem with the bulge (for me) was the bullet was too loose when seating! With the bulge moved back, the problem was gone. Some might say "wow", you bulged three barrels?  Yes, over the period of about 12 years firing over 2,000 to 3,000 shot a year! |
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Post by jimmykip on Feb 9, 2020 20:00:01 GMT -5
I loaded 2 250 xtp's on top of 70 grains of n120 and shot a couple years ago. The slight bulge was right about where the first bullet was. There was also a slight hairline crack (barely visable) about 2 inches long along the first taper. The barrel was a 5 inch shank Brux mod sendero.
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Post by bkm on Feb 9, 2020 21:35:13 GMT -5
All three barrels I have bulged took place right where the powder column ended and bullet was seated. Five inches of thick barrel will keep you in that area. All three of my barrels were able to be saved by cutting off three inches of the breech end and retheading. The bulge's were about .024" total increase in a 1/2" area. While the bulge was still there, it was now right where recoil lug is..........and not in a position of stress. They all shot just fine. Depending on whether you double loaded JUST another bullet or if you put in an additional charge and a bullet could determine whether you get a bulge or a burst. While the second charge probably will not ignite, it does add that much more weight. My new barrel will have 6" at 1.300" and then a straight taper to 1". So that gives me a lot of thick barrel even beyond the 6". I am not advocating that anyone should do what I did? That is a personal decision. But, all three barrels were shot again WITH the bulge still in so I know they were safe. The main problem with the bulge (for me) was the bullet was too loose when seating! With the bulge moved back, the problem was gone. Some might say "wow", you bulged three barrels? Yes, over the period of about 12 years firing over 2,000 to 3,000 shot a year! Richard were the bulges caused from just repetitive heavy charges and heavy bullets or double loads, powder charges , etc... Not trying to embarrass or belittle anyone. Just wondering If those of us that shoot lots of hot heavy rds are hammering our barrels that hard. |
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Yes, over the period of about 12 years firing over 2,000 to 3,000 shot a year! 